Maoile Lunndaidh

I was determined that this year would be the year I would compleat (sic) the Munros. 15 left, and 3 or 4 per year since 2014. Covid lockdowns had made me more determined to get out and a discussion with Graeme in November highlighted that we were both keen to do more Munro trips. I tend not to venture into the Munros over Winter, as I promised my wife years ago that I wouldn't go. However, the weather window looked good for the start of March. I decided to take the day off work, and get away nice and early. I was going to take the MTB and break the back of the route into Maoile Lunndaidh by biking up past the Pollan Buidhe. I arrived at the car park near Craig at 1100 and estimated a good 6.5 hours of daylight. I should have plenty of time. It felt great to get into the hills on the bike but I was really feeling the heart pumping as I climbed up into Glenuaig. The hills looked fabulous with a coating of snow above 700m. 

I began to wend round towards Glenuaig Lodge itself and it was an impressive place to stay - perhaps one day. I took some photos, left the bike behind the 'bothy' and started the tramp over towards the hill proper. Before setting out today, I had calculated that I would head via the broad but steep North ridge - as I was lightly equipped with trail shoes, and no crampons. This was a sound decision as it was good-going to 900m but the last 100m of ascent was on firm snow. It was bitterly cold on the summit and I could see a couple of other folks around the corrie, heading down.

I re-traced my steps as I came, and followed the path back out to 1-km east of the Lodge. I looked back up the glen out towards Strathconon direction, where there was a beautiful stillness to the view. Nothing beyond for a good few miles. Bliss. From there, it was back on the bike and a lovely ride out, eventually passing the couple and their dog. I forgot momentarily about the gate about 3km back along the track out and my brakes were tested! I got back to the car by 1530 - an absolutely cracking hill. All that remained was to get a coffee in Achnasheen and then on to my AirBnB in Drumnadrochit for the evening. 

Into Knoydart - Meall Buidhe & Luinne Bheinn

My first time into Knoydart would also coincide with my 2nd trip into the Munros for 2021. I seem to be averaging 4-5 Munros per year but this trip had been in planning since I'd been out with Graeme on Mam na Gualain in May. As usual, I didn't sleep well the night before so it was a very early start for me and I was at Mallaig for 0600. The boat wasn't until 0730. Graeme and Luna arrived just before 0700 and with heavy packs on, we boarded and enjoyed the excellent transfer over. Once we disembarked, we started the walk up into the Glen, catching up on life. We fair motored along the track up to the Mam Barrisdale, taking it all in. It felt wild here. After a couple of good hours walking, we found a wee promontory just down from Meall Buidhe and set up camp. 

After some refreshments, it was light packs on and the small matter of the two Munros for the day. It was a steep pull up on to Meall Buidhe and it took us over 2 hours to make the summit - the heat was rather stifling but the views more than made up for the pain. What a wondrous place this is.

I sent a message to Mrs P saying we were at first summit - it was the first time I'd had signal and that was refreshing enough in itself. We began the walk over to Luinne Bheinn, which didn't look that far but the descent and ascent over to it was tricky and tough, especially with Luna who was fearful of some of the climbs. The terrain between the two Munros allowed for some amazing views over to Ben Aden and beyond. Future routes were already being hatched; wee waterfalls planned for a refreshing dook. We eventually topped out on her 2nd Munro of the day, and the views were again fantastic. From here, we headed down towards the Mam Barrisdale but took a more direct route back to the tents, whereupon we downed a tin of beer in seconds. A fabulous day's walking - both tough and tremendous with the walk back out the next day to the Old Forge for lunch and a beer, a real treat. Cannot wait to come back.

An Socach from Killilan

I knew that the minute we could emerge from lockdown 2, I was aiming for this Munro as part of a bike ride from Killilan. And so the moment came, I was too excited to wait for the 0500 alarm. I got up at 0200 after a grand two hours sleep and headed straight out of the door. The long drive from home to Killilan saw me head across Rannoch Moor at 0345 with deer at the side of the road, almost ghostly in the headlights. I eventually rolled up at the car park, where I had also decided to come after lockdown 1 back in July 2020. I popped the front tyre on the Curbar MTB and began the cycle - even at 0630, the farmer was up and about and gave me a wave. It was a lovely cycle up to the end of Glen Elchaig and I rode as far as I could reasonably take the bike - a good 14 km from the car and barely an hour had passed. It was a beautiful day; cold and with some snow on the tops - would it come into play higher up? The view back down Glen Elchaig was outstanding.

Now, the hard work could begin. A tramp across the bogs and the shoulder of An Socach was my first target; it seemed an age before I made the flat ground below the shoulder proper and the views to the hills surrounding my target was astounding. What a place to take it all in. It had been several months since I had been on the Munros (6 in fact) and who could have foreseen the 2nd Covid wave being so brutal. The decision to allow families to meet at Christmas was a costly one; I was happy that I had played no part in putting my own parents at risk. Others had not been so fortunate. I now carried on to the last climb up to An Socach and wondered if I had enough in the tank to take in the 2nd Munro, An Riabhachan. When I finally reached the last part of the hill, I realised with the size of the cornices, getting to An Riabhachan would be too much of a risk and so I stayed a while at the summit of Munro 265. I phoned my wife to let her know I was good (it was 0930) and was heading back down. The views were incredible. It was also bitterly cold. 

I re-traced my steps until the shoulder, then decided to head down to the North of the loch, before a lovely walk back to the bike, dodging frogs and their spawn. From the bike, it was a lovely meander back to the car, with the heat of the day now apparent. I packed the bike away and made the trip back home in time for tea. A 42-km day made much easier with the bike and it was superb to be back amongst the big hills.

Sgurr Choinnich & Sgurr a' Chaorachain

It had been a couple of months since the Skye extravaganza that was the duo of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alasdair. Possibly the best hill day ever experienced. For this trip, it was the 4.5 hour drive up and back in the same day that would be tough but in the 6-series, it ate up the miles. What an exquisite machine it is. I left home at 0515 and was parked up at 0945. It was a cool, Autumn day. It would be cold on the tops and I got that prediction spot on. It had been a few years since I'd been up here to bag the two Corbetts together and the wind that day had been brutal. I walk/ran the track up to the Pollan Buidhe and I was at the wire bridge within an hour. I briefly lost the rhythm and found myself off-balance - but I regained composure and made it across dry! From here, the track had been improved significantly and it didn't take me long before I got to the bealach Bearnais. I sat here and ate a glorious tuna roll - I must have been hungry. I could see someone up ahead on the ridge up to the 1st objective of the day but I never caught up with them. The ascent from the bealach up to the summit felt quite long but the views back down to the Pollan Buidhe and over to Sheasgaich were impressive. The latter peak particularly so. After a quick stop at the summit, I began the descent down to the bealach and Loch Monar came into view. What a wild area it is. The ascent up on to Chaorachain was relatively quick although by this point, I had put on gloves and hat. It was cold. Winter is upon us. I decided to head North and to the right, dropping down where Maoile Lunndaidh came into view. Now, an awkward Munro that one - perhaps doable from Strathconon as an alternative approach. I inadvertently came down upon a party hunting the stag - it had been so long since I had done a Munro in October that I had forgotten about the stag season. I had to wait a good 30 minutes, immobile, careful not to disturb the party. Eventually, the stag and his herd ran off and I made my descent quickly. I was back at the car by 1600 and after a lovely sausage roll and can of lemon San Pellegrino, I drove home - in time for books for M. A fab day out. Munros no. 263 and 264.

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich & Sgurr Alasdair via Collie's ledge

My last Munro experience was on Sgurr nan Gillean in September - almost a full year and in that time, I had started a dream job, Martha had started school and a pandemic was in full flow. What a fucking year. A rollercoaster of every emotion was in there - happiness, fear, trepidation, pride, anxiety - and all that before we got to bloody Covid-19. The pandemic coincided with what can only be described as dream weather. But it was a nightmare not being able to get to the hills! All this was changing and the weather gods had aligned to give me a great opportunity at overcoming my Skye fears of the Cuillins. Since Sgurr nan Gillean, I had promised my wife I'd hire a guide for the last few tricky ones. I had used Jonah Jones back in 2012 for the Inn Pinn and I was impressed by his no-nonsense approach - he got the job done and inspired confidence. So it was I agreed to meet with Jonah (postponed from March) August 13th 2020 to combine Sgurr a Mhadaidh to Banachdich. I had left Kylesku at 0330 and it was a long drive to Skye, with many deer on the roads and tiredness as my companion. I got to Glen Brittle for 0800 and not long after Jonah arrived. "So, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich & Sgurr Alasdair!" - this wasn't the script. I reminded him of my intended route but he just said that as this was a good day, we'd crack these two instead. I wasn't going to argue with him! But neither did I think I'd have the head for this, if I could scarcely handle Sgurr nan Gillean. 

We left Glen Brittle and stormed up to the loch in Coire Lagan, which was still enshrouded in mist. We took a breather at 1800ft and he said to keep to the left of the An Stac screes. I could sense that the sun was trying to burn off the mist and as we walked and climbed higher, the cloud dissolved leaving me staring at the behemoth of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich; "eh, it looks bigger in real-life, Jonah". He chuckled. Already I was thinking how the hell would I be able to go from that peak in the sky over to that other pointy peak in the sky. When we got up to the bealach, the sight that lay around us was one of the best I've ever witnessed - a full inversion of all the major peaks poking through the cloud - even as far as Rhum. Just incredible and I was in awe of my situation - this was hard to beat.

We took on some water, got the harnesses and helmets on and began the final assault on to Mhic Choinnich. I was very glad that I could follow Jonah up this - I wouldn't have had a clue. Before long, we made it up on the small summit and to the cairn. I daren't ask how we were going to connect the ridge but Jonah just said "Collie's ledge, bit of a climb after that; round a corner and a down-climb - you'll be fine". Now, I'm very lucky in owning Gordon Stainforth's Cuillins book and I was desperately trying to remember what Collie's Ledge looked like - it didn't sound particularly wide - ledge would suggest a narrow 'path'. Anyway, without time to shit myself, we carried on back to where said ledge was and he said to just follow him and if I wanted to look down, I could. I did but rather than freeze, I just accepted that this had to be done and carried on. Time passed, we roped up, we did some exposed climbing and I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Jonah is a very charismatic and honest man - his stories of his time in the Marines (and out of) were both fascinating and tough to listen to. We can never comprehend the sacrifices these folks make -  and how they have to adapt to civilian life after it. A sense of purpose can be the difference between life and death. 

Eventually, we began the last climb up on to Sgurr Alasdair and once at the summit, the view out to Gars-Bheinn was also sublime. Munro no. 262 and possibly one of my most memorable - or was it Munro 261?

We down climbed after a cuppa, cooled off and then began the descent down the Giant Stone Chute - it looked steep but we got down in quick time and took a breather and soaked our heads in the loch. From here, it was an easy and hot descent back to the cars. What a superb day - not sure it can be beaten, Huge thanks to the best guide in Skye by a mile. 

 

Sgurr nan Gillean

Without doubt, I totalled myself as I approached the summit. I'll look back on this outing as one that was a success but one that also had me questioning whether I'd actually get back down alive. I was staying in Elgol and had arisen at 0330, in order to get ahead of the incoming bad weather. I drove round to the Sligachan for 0600, and began the walk with headtorch on. A good 45 minute yomp and I was beginning to see the sunrise behind Glamaig and co. In front of me, Bla Bheinn could be made out through the cloud. It was very atmospheric and conditions were benign.

As I climbed over the coire floor and on to the shoulder of Sgurr nan Gillean, some cloud was sweeping in adding an atmospheric feel to the morning. It had been a while since my last Munro outing and although I was at 2000 ft, I was beginning to feel it. Time wasn't an issue as it was just gone 0800.

I eventually made it on to the ridge proper and looked South to see Sgurr na-H-Uamha, a long awaited view of perhaps one of the most impressive peaks of the Cuillin. I was not interested in doing this as I figured the climb up to the Munro proper would be tough enough.

The ridge to the summit looked like it was a km long, rather than the 300m or so but there was no doubting how airy and exposed this would be. I carefully took my time, deliberate with hand and foot. Things were going well until I'd say the last 150m or so. I seemed to be getting pushed further West than I wanted and the scrambling was quite intense. I was very conscious of the yawning coire away to my left, with the Basteir tooth poking up on my peripheral vision.

I eventually scrambled on to a large slab and made my way along to the crevasse, before the summit cairn. I couldn't believe how small (and exposed) the cairn was. I began to get very worried, wondering how I'd get back down. It is the most uncomfortable I've every felt at a summit in Scotland and I was very keen to get off the peak, as safely as possible. There was a lot of bumsliding/gripping and the occasional jump down off the slabs. Eventually, I reached the basalt-like funnel and began to relax a bit more. Once back down to the bealach, I sent a message to my wife saying I was down safe and that I'd had a bit of a scare. At Munro 260, I have to consider whether a guide will be needed for the 5 Munros left over on the Glen Brittle side.

Maol-Chean Dearg

Hill of the bald, red head. In effect, me. Initially, I had considered a much bigger day - the Achnashellach 3 or 5, with Bearnais bothy thrown in but the logistics of slogging a heavy pack over 3 Munros sounded unpleasant. I also wanted to try and run something. What I decided was to hike in to Coulags bothy, dump my large pack and run light up on to this Munro, with adjoining An Ruadh-Stac. If I felt fit enough, I could get back to the bothy, have some lunch and then try for Sgurr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl. In the end, I picked sensibly.

I hadn't been to Coulags or this glen before so virgin territory is always taken in with utmost attention. The bothy was a quick 40 minute pad and was impeccably clean throughout. A definite overnighter would be had here. I packed my light gear and sped off along the stalker's path up the glen and past the infamous dog-tethering stone. It was cloudy but mild and I sensed an improving day. I rapidly made ascent up the path and passed a lady with her 5 spaniels! She too was going for the Munro and we would bump into each other several times over the course of the day. I reached the bealach in good time and then began the yomp up the scree paths to the bald, red head. It was quite a tough ascent, especially the boulders before the summit cairn. From there, I had some liquid and food and watched as the cloud rolled away to reveal Torridon. It felt a little anti-climatic after having been blown away by the views to An Ruadh-Stac and beyond.

I looked back to Fuar Tholl and Sgurr Dearg and thought that combining those with the Munro I was on PLUS the Corbett would be a very tough day. I therefore decided to just relax and take my time, which was essential getting back to the scree slopes to the bealach. From here, I nipped down to the large lochain and refreshed my water bottle before getting ready for the 360m ascent of the Corbett. What a stunning place to be, with views back through the gap to a Corbett I'd done a few years ago, Being Damh. The climb up the slabs and awkward path was arduous and I began to feel my lack of hill fitness kicking in. I was elated to reach the top and touched the eventual summit. I sat down and texted my wife to say all was ok and that I'd be lunching at the bothy before a walk back out and finding a hotel. As it was 1345, I had plenty of time ahead of me. The descent demanded absolute attention and I was grateful to get back down to safe ground. All that remained was to run down the fabulous stalker's path to the bothy, where I cooked up a fab veggie bean chilli. I even had it with a can of beer, which was sublime. An easy wander back to the car and it was another fab hill day.