Sgurr Choinnich & Sgurr a' Chaorachain

It had been a couple of months since the Skye extravaganza that was the duo of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alasdair. Possibly the best hill day ever experienced. For this trip, it was the 4.5 hour drive up and back in the same day that would be tough but in the 6-series, it ate up the miles. What an exquisite machine it is. I left home at 0515 and was parked up at 0945. It was a cool, Autumn day. It would be cold on the tops and I got that prediction spot on. It had been a few years since I'd been up here to bag the two Corbetts together and the wind that day had been brutal. I walk/ran the track up to the Pollan Buidhe and I was at the wire bridge within an hour. I briefly lost the rhythm and found myself off-balance - but I regained composure and made it across dry! From here, the track had been improved significantly and it didn't take me long before I got to the bealach Bearnais. I sat here and ate a glorious tuna roll - I must have been hungry. I could see someone up ahead on the ridge up to the 1st objective of the day but I never caught up with them. The ascent from the bealach up to the summit felt quite long but the views back down to the Pollan Buidhe and over to Sheasgaich were impressive. The latter peak particularly so. After a quick stop at the summit, I began the descent down to the bealach and Loch Monar came into view. What a wild area it is. The ascent up on to Chaorachain was relatively quick although by this point, I had put on gloves and hat. It was cold. Winter is upon us. I decided to head North and to the right, dropping down where Maoile Lunndaidh came into view. Now, an awkward Munro that one - perhaps doable from Strathconon as an alternative approach. I inadvertently came down upon a party hunting the stag - it had been so long since I had done a Munro in October that I had forgotten about the stag season. I had to wait a good 30 minutes, immobile, careful not to disturb the party. Eventually, the stag and his herd ran off and I made my descent quickly. I was back at the car by 1600 and after a lovely sausage roll and can of lemon San Pellegrino, I drove home - in time for books for M. A fab day out. Munros no. 263 and 264.

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich & Sgurr Alasdair via Collie's ledge

My last Munro experience was on Sgurr nan Gillean in September - almost a full year and in that time, I had started a dream job, Martha had started school and a pandemic was in full flow. What a fucking year. A rollercoaster of every emotion was in there - happiness, fear, trepidation, pride, anxiety - and all that before we got to bloody Covid-19. The pandemic coincided with what can only be described as dream weather. But it was a nightmare not being able to get to the hills! All this was changing and the weather gods had aligned to give me a great opportunity at overcoming my Skye fears of the Cuillins. Since Sgurr nan Gillean, I had promised my wife I'd hire a guide for the last few tricky ones. I had used Jonah Jones back in 2012 for the Inn Pinn and I was impressed by his no-nonsense approach - he got the job done and inspired confidence. So it was I agreed to meet with Jonah (postponed from March) August 13th 2020 to combine Sgurr a Mhadaidh to Banachdich. I had left Kylesku at 0330 and it was a long drive to Skye, with many deer on the roads and tiredness as my companion. I got to Glen Brittle for 0800 and not long after Jonah arrived. "So, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich & Sgurr Alasdair!" - this wasn't the script. I reminded him of my intended route but he just said that as this was a good day, we'd crack these two instead. I wasn't going to argue with him! But neither did I think I'd have the head for this, if I could scarcely handle Sgurr nan Gillean. 

We left Glen Brittle and stormed up to the loch in Coire Lagan, which was still enshrouded in mist. We took a breather at 1800ft and he said to keep to the left of the An Stac screes. I could sense that the sun was trying to burn off the mist and as we walked and climbed higher, the cloud dissolved leaving me staring at the behemoth of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich; "eh, it looks bigger in real-life, Jonah". He chuckled. Already I was thinking how the hell would I be able to go from that peak in the sky over to that other pointy peak in the sky. When we got up to the bealach, the sight that lay around us was one of the best I've ever witnessed - a full inversion of all the major peaks poking through the cloud - even as far as Rhum. Just incredible and I was in awe of my situation - this was hard to beat.

We took on some water, got the harnesses and helmets on and began the final assault on to Mhic Choinnich. I was very glad that I could follow Jonah up this - I wouldn't have had a clue. Before long, we made it up on the small summit and to the cairn. I daren't ask how we were going to connect the ridge but Jonah just said "Collie's ledge, bit of a climb after that; round a corner and a down-climb - you'll be fine". Now, I'm very lucky in owning Gordon Stainforth's Cuillins book and I was desperately trying to remember what Collie's Ledge looked like - it didn't sound particularly wide - ledge would suggest a narrow 'path'. Anyway, without time to shit myself, we carried on back to where said ledge was and he said to just follow him and if I wanted to look down, I could. I did but rather than freeze, I just accepted that this had to be done and carried on. Time passed, we roped up, we did some exposed climbing and I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Jonah is a very charismatic and honest man - his stories of his time in the Marines (and out of) were both fascinating and tough to listen to. We can never comprehend the sacrifices these folks make -  and how they have to adapt to civilian life after it. A sense of purpose can be the difference between life and death. 

Eventually, we began the last climb up on to Sgurr Alasdair and once at the summit, the view out to Gars-Bheinn was also sublime. Munro no. 262 and possibly one of my most memorable - or was it Munro 261?

We down climbed after a cuppa, cooled off and then began the descent down the Giant Stone Chute - it looked steep but we got down in quick time and took a breather and soaked our heads in the loch. From here, it was an easy and hot descent back to the cars. What a superb day - not sure it can be beaten, Huge thanks to the best guide in Skye by a mile. 

 

Sgurr nan Gillean

Without doubt, I totalled myself as I approached the summit. I'll look back on this outing as one that was a success but one that also had me questioning whether I'd actually get back down alive. I was staying in Elgol and had arisen at 0330, in order to get ahead of the incoming bad weather. I drove round to the Sligachan for 0600, and began the walk with headtorch on. A good 45 minute yomp and I was beginning to see the sunrise behind Glamaig and co. In front of me, Bla Bheinn could be made out through the cloud. It was very atmospheric and conditions were benign.

As I climbed over the coire floor and on to the shoulder of Sgurr nan Gillean, some cloud was sweeping in adding an atmospheric feel to the morning. It had been a while since my last Munro outing and although I was at 2000 ft, I was beginning to feel it. Time wasn't an issue as it was just gone 0800.

I eventually made it on to the ridge proper and looked South to see Sgurr na-H-Uamha, a long awaited view of perhaps one of the most impressive peaks of the Cuillin. I was not interested in doing this as I figured the climb up to the Munro proper would be tough enough.

The ridge to the summit looked like it was a km long, rather than the 300m or so but there was no doubting how airy and exposed this would be. I carefully took my time, deliberate with hand and foot. Things were going well until I'd say the last 150m or so. I seemed to be getting pushed further West than I wanted and the scrambling was quite intense. I was very conscious of the yawning coire away to my left, with the Basteir tooth poking up on my peripheral vision.

I eventually scrambled on to a large slab and made my way along to the crevasse, before the summit cairn. I couldn't believe how small (and exposed) the cairn was. I began to get very worried, wondering how I'd get back down. It is the most uncomfortable I've every felt at a summit in Scotland and I was very keen to get off the peak, as safely as possible. There was a lot of bumsliding/gripping and the occasional jump down off the slabs. Eventually, I reached the basalt-like funnel and began to relax a bit more. Once back down to the bealach, I sent a message to my wife saying I was down safe and that I'd had a bit of a scare. At Munro 260, I have to consider whether a guide will be needed for the 5 Munros left over on the Glen Brittle side.

Maol-Chean Dearg

Hill of the bald, red head. In effect, me. Initially, I had considered a much bigger day - the Achnashellach 3 or 5, with Bearnais bothy thrown in but the logistics of slogging a heavy pack over 3 Munros sounded unpleasant. I also wanted to try and run something. What I decided was to hike in to Coulags bothy, dump my large pack and run light up on to this Munro, with adjoining An Ruadh-Stac. If I felt fit enough, I could get back to the bothy, have some lunch and then try for Sgurr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl. In the end, I picked sensibly.

I hadn't been to Coulags or this glen before so virgin territory is always taken in with utmost attention. The bothy was a quick 40 minute pad and was impeccably clean throughout. A definite overnighter would be had here. I packed my light gear and sped off along the stalker's path up the glen and past the infamous dog-tethering stone. It was cloudy but mild and I sensed an improving day. I rapidly made ascent up the path and passed a lady with her 5 spaniels! She too was going for the Munro and we would bump into each other several times over the course of the day. I reached the bealach in good time and then began the yomp up the scree paths to the bald, red head. It was quite a tough ascent, especially the boulders before the summit cairn. From there, I had some liquid and food and watched as the cloud rolled away to reveal Torridon. It felt a little anti-climatic after having been blown away by the views to An Ruadh-Stac and beyond.

I looked back to Fuar Tholl and Sgurr Dearg and thought that combining those with the Munro I was on PLUS the Corbett would be a very tough day. I therefore decided to just relax and take my time, which was essential getting back to the scree slopes to the bealach. From here, I nipped down to the large lochain and refreshed my water bottle before getting ready for the 360m ascent of the Corbett. What a stunning place to be, with views back through the gap to a Corbett I'd done a few years ago, Being Damh. The climb up the slabs and awkward path was arduous and I began to feel my lack of hill fitness kicking in. I was elated to reach the top and touched the eventual summit. I sat down and texted my wife to say all was ok and that I'd be lunching at the bothy before a walk back out and finding a hotel. As it was 1345, I had plenty of time ahead of me. The descent demanded absolute attention and I was grateful to get back down to safe ground. All that remained was to run down the fabulous stalker's path to the bothy, where I cooked up a fab veggie bean chilli. I even had it with a can of beer, which was sublime. An easy wander back to the car and it was another fab hill day.

Ben Hope

Or 'had given up hope but found hope'. Hill fever - it can't be suppressed. With Darren's last Munro on Ladhar Bheinn, I was meant to drive up the night before and meet him somewhere along the way. The plan was to get some shut-eye, then make an early start. I tossed and turned for 30 minutes then decided to just head off at 2230. I was heading along the A82 with a coffee and wondering whether I'd get the whole way to Kinlochourn before a sleep. Driving across Glencoe at 2345 was a spooky experience with many deer popping up at the side of the road, as I drove past. I eventually got to Invergarry for about 0115 only to find a large sign indicating that the A87 West and East was shut until 0700 the next day. Feck. This would mean I wouldn't get to Kinlochourn until at least 0800 with a 90-minute run to Barrisdale meaning I was unlikely to meet Darren on the hill. My tired mind played over what to do. I felt relatively awake. I decided on Ben Hope in the North. I drove (all night) and eventually got to south of Lairg for 0400 before I succumbed to a 30-minute nap. A truck roared past the lay-by and I was awake. I drove on and eventually happened upon a rather wonderful sunrise over Ben Klibreck.

I was really heartened by this and continued the drive round to the Altnaharra, then beyond to the eventual starting point for Ben Hope. It looked impressive from here. At 0600, I began the trek up and made excellent time up the hill. It reminded me of Ben Klibreck in some ways but once on to the flatter plateau, before the final climb I looked back and could appreciate the magnificent views to Foinaven, Klibreck itself and Arkle. The last steep part of the mountain was now bathed in sunshine with a light wind and once at the summit proper, I was blown away by the inversion over Ben Loyal and the North of Scotland. What a fantastic mountain.

I headed over to the further most Northerly point and relished the expanse before me. I phoned my wife and told her I was ok, as she hadn't heard from me since mixed messages through the night. I then began the descent and was back at the car for 0900. Lovely to be back amongst the big boys once again.

Being Eighe

As my wee daughter grows, it becomes easier to get time away and re-acquaint myself with old friends i.e. the Munros. The last 3 years have seen the Munros take a back seat, while I watch the wee one become an impudent, loveable rogue. And so it was, I had the full day to explore Torridon and my target for the day, Being Eighe. I arrived at the car park directly below the first summit of the day. I spoke to a Danish family over on holiday who were mesmerised by the majesty of the surroundings - easy to see when the highest hill in Denmark is a towering 175m. It was glorious with a wee wind to keep the insects awa'. I was going light and started the walk on to the excellent path. As I climbed higher, the North-facing corries started to creep into view at the far Eastern end. Within 45 minutes, I was standing at the first cairn, having caught up with a couple of German damen. We looked South and saw a couple of stags along the ridge - I had never seen deer so high - perhaps 850m up? I showed the girls the way over the hill if they chose (they had no map) and sensibly they retreated the way back down. I fairly steamed up to the main ridge proper and was absolutely blown away by the surroundings West, North and East. From the cairn, the view was probably one of the best I have encountered on a hill.

I headed along to the main summit and relished the airiness. I didn't hang about and returned to my original perch before then beginning the descent and along to the next part of the day. I spied the small cairn showing the way down to the Lochain for later and then headed up and along to the 2nd Munro of the day. I passed an English couple along the way and once again stood at one of Beinn Eighe Munro summits, blown away. The view across Torridon to the vast landscape was sublime. I returned reluctantly to head down and eventually get back to the scree chute, which by keeping to the right, was relatively straightforward. The walk back along the lochain was peaceful and what an amphitheatre it is, with the Triple Buttress at the back. From here, the walk became a run back along the excellent path and to the road, where I had a final jog back to the car. Without doubt this should be one of your five in a lifetime. Hard to think of a better day in all honesty. Simply magic.

Braeriach

Brindled high upland is the apparent English translation for this hill. I prefer the Gaelic Braigh-Riach (I think!). Fresh from a Munro only 3 weeks ago, the unprecedented summer weather meant that the opportunity to head North again couldn't be turned down. I was up at 0330 (also unprecedented) and away by 0345, where surprisingly roads had a few cars on them. Once past Perth though, the road was more or less to myself and I arrived at the Allt Mhor car park in Glenmore in relative silence. I changed quickly and was away by 0630. The initial road walk allowed me time to get some salted crisps down me before what would be a hot day.

It was actually quite chilly (9C) in my shorts and t-shirt but the skies were brilliant blue. I was up at the Chalamain gap within 40 minutes and chose to ascend the bypass path since I was not keen to repeat the awkward climb through. This allowed me early sight of the shoulder of my intended mountain. It had been 18 months since I'd run through here with Darren on an epic 50-km day down the Lairig an Laoigh and up the Lairig Ghru. Being back here brought back that familiarity but total respect for an area that I adore. I feel like I belong in the Cairngorms.

I skipped over the stepping stones at the river and began the ascent of the hill proper. 250m ascent in a 1-km distance showed that it was relatively steep but the gradient soon levelled off, although the boulders meant for careful treading. Eventually, I was high above the Lairig Ghru and staring across to Carn a Mhaim and the Devil's point, which were dwarfed by the massif of Braeriach. I scared a ptarmigan and its 2 chicks and it did its best to persuade me to follow it, with its fake injury. I naturally avoided the chicks and eventually the ptarmigan had led me a good 50m up the hill before it flew back to re-join its young family. Wee wildlife moments like that stick with you forever. I was now looking over the vast Garbh Choire and then at the summit. I moved round to the coire lip and sat taking in the amazing view and peace. The wind was both cold and wondrous.

My return down the hill was complete with those hoping to ascend before it got too hot. I was back at the car 4.5 hours after setting off with another Munro, 25km, and a fantastic hill experience.