Mullach nan Coirean and Stob Ban

Had planned to do the Ring of Steall with a guy from Walk Highlands website but once we arrived at the car park, decided that would be for a better day. The clag was down, the mouchettes were oot and we decided to head through the forest for MnC. We zig-zagged up the path but made a wee technical error somewhere with the GPS. What followed next could only be described as Rambo-esque climbing through bracken, heather and forest. Not much fun and the sweat was pashing off me. Mind you, my compadre was struggling even more - no wonder as he was carrying a 65 litre pack with an incredible amount of stuff. He was certainly prepped.

We got on to the hill proper and from there it was an easy enough pad up on to the red screes of this hill. Mind you, the 1st cairn was not the summit point so on we marched until the 1st M-point was in the bag. I'm sure folk will have made a booboo from this 1st cairn but no us. We didn't hing aboot and began the pad over to Stob Ban. This was a much more picturesque hill with great quartzite drops on either side of its peak. The meander over to the hill takes a good 25 minutes so you do feel like you've earned this 2nd Munro. Once up on the hill, we took the photaes, checked the route down (initially tricky) and headed down off the bealach into the corrie, on an excellent path. Monty began running down so I just kept up - by the time we hit the car park, it had taken us 4 hours and 30 minutes. A good pad but it was a pity the views were at a premium. Off to the Black Isle next week and hoping for better weather when tackling some of the Torridon peaks - fabbydoo!

The Aonach Eagach ridge

Couldn't believe that I took my camera for this special day and forgot the re-chargeable battery, which was still in charger 88 miles away. I am a phallus. My disappointment was slightly tempered by the fact that my buddy Cat for the day had a mobile phone (1.5Mb size) with camera so at least we'd get some photos of the trip, once she had downloaded them. Not that it was a day which wasn't memorable. I have decided to do this report in a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) style as it's a ridge which throws up lots of questions and hopefully I can provide some answers.

1. Where to park? I parked at the layby just opposite Loch Achtriochtan. This means you have a 2 mile warm-up walk to the bottom of Am Bodach - the route starts behind the small car-park and a path can be followed up - quite steep at first. Cat and I set off from here at 0800 and it was strangely quiet for Glencoe on Saturday - this meant less hassle for the awkward bits further up.

2. What is the path like up on to Am Bodach? Great. Very easy to follow but there is a small amount of scrambling about 400 ft from the top. You ascend quickly though.

3. How difficult is the Aonach Eagach and how soon do the difficulties start? Not far from the cairn of Am Bodach, there is a path, which goes off to the left - this will take you down to the fantastic prow of the Chancellor - it's scenic and a nice wee down-climb - take your time and it's straightforward enough and ideal for photos, as your party are thrust out into their airy position. This will give you a real sense of what is to come. If you don't like this, you won't like it further on. For me, this was one of the highlights of the day. Once back on to the main ridge, there is a nice path to follow before a down-climb drops you down about 15 metres. Good holds here and not that exposed - I was surprised as it was much easier than the book suggests. In fact, it was surprisingly smooth until we bagged Meall Dearg, with little in the way of difficulty. Was this going to be easier than the book and people make out? We could now see the AE ridge proper and it looked fab. The 'chimney' is a nice taster of easy holds up a funnel for 20 ft but it's not a 90 angle - maybe 70 degrees. Holds are very 'juggy', with little technicality. It's good fun and again not desperate in any way. Great photo shot though. Over the next 30-45 minutes, there are one or two areas, which need care and offer some exposure with some good drops on either side but as long as you take your time and have a head for heights, it's all good. This part may put off those who don't have a head for heights though or are confident in their scrambling abilities. Once past Stob Coire Leith, it's an enjoyable amble all the way to Sgorr Nam Fiannaidh and your 2nd Munro of the day.

4. What's the best way to get down safely? Helicopter. Seriously though we didn't entertain the path down beside the Clachaig gully. Because we had one car, we had decided to descend South straight off the 2nd Munro - there is a path about 15 yards on from the cairn. Initially, it's not bad but it gets very tricky further down due to the scree and unstable gravel. Care is needed so you're not on your backside or worse. Make for the grassy patches about 2/3 of the way down - once on to this all difficulties are over but it's a pretty steep and unrelenting descent. It may be easier (though longer) to go over to the col before the Pap. For us, it brought us right back to car at the layby.

5. Fit time did ye dee it in? 6 oors from start to finish and this involved a nice lunch for 30 mins and a 25 min diversion to the Chancellor. Cat had a better lunch than me - BLT. 

6. Is it comparable to onything else? Aye it is - very similar to the Forcan ridge aka the Saddle, in Glen Shiel. If you can cope with that, you'll be fine with this.

7. Please sir? Yes. Will there be photaes o this day oot? Yes there will be. Class dismissed.

No need to curse on the Forcan ridge

I had been asked to go to a Rannoch dinner up in Skye and decided to hit a few hills on the way up on the Friday. The Rannoch ethos is a bit bizarre. Par exemple, if one of the group went missing or doesn't turn up from a hill day, there's a fight for that person's dessert before a search party is arranged. Who were this motley crew that I would be dining with? I digress. The drive from Glasgow to Kintail was smooth as we left at 0630. We (Big Al and I), parked at the layby and walked over to a wee gate, where we could make out the excellent stalker's path up to the bealach. It really is a great path and it wasn't long before we popped on to the bealach and my first view of the Saddle was had - it looked quite foreboding but at least it had stopped raining. We strode onwards and upwards before reaching the bottom of the scrambly stuff - I wasn't sure what to expect.

Books and reports suggested one or two awkward points. Having done some indoor climbing, I felt comfortable with what lay ahead. The initial part is easy scrambling but it isn't long before you're scrambling with some nice exposure on either side. I would say about 30 minutes into the scramble, there was one point, which was an awkward pull up a slopey boulder but it was very positive. I could now see the other path, which avoids the ridge completely. The ridge is a must but does require a good head for heights. More excellent scrambling led to a fairly precipitous 20 ft drop. There were two paths off this, which are quite tricky to get down but with care, it shouldn't be a problem. We chose the route more or less straight down, which was interesting and involved down-climbing but with deliberation, we got there. This is an awkward part and will put people off - I think it helped that I had some experience indoors but it doesn't prepare you for the wet and sharp rock you have to grip for. From here, there was a great path all the way to the top and a rewarding view across to the peaks in the other areas. From beginning of the ridge to the summit took us 90 minutes - we were quite quick along this.

We had lunch and Big Al played some Rammstein (Du hast Milch) - the peace was shattered by his hi-tech faux-pas but it psyched us up for our descent/ascent to Sgurr Na Sgine. Why someone would build a bloody great wall off this hill and down past the bealach is beyond me but by following it, it took us nicely to the bealach and afforded a fine view along the Saddle. We climbed up the side of SnSgine and it wasn't long before we walked along towards the summit cairn - it's a dramatic drop just off the edge of the cairn and there was a perfect wee howff for two to take tea. From there, we decided to descend off Faochag (the whelk) but it meant an excellent view back to Sgurr na Sgine.

The descent off Faochag - my god, it was an unrelenting, quad-bursting descent but done in quick time due to its steepness. My legs are still buggered. Big Al wasn't sure of the pronounciation and after the descent called it 'F**kpig' - I don't think that was quite right though. However, once across the river, that feeling of achievement and a great day on the hill was had and we enjoyed a great drive up to Elgol for a the dinner gathering at Major General Gav's pad - and were rewarded with a wonderful view of the Cuillin ridge at sunset. Dram in hand and legs weary I looked across and revelled in what had been a great day on the hill.

Mount Keen

It had been a tough week at work, dealing with swine flu and the fallout. Thankfully, I had been told to bugger off for the weekend and I thought I'd head to the Grampians en route to my folks. I had had a few problems with my knee recently and was 'keen' to try it out on the walk-in and moderate ascent. The first thing that struck me was that it's a helluva long road until you even get to the car park at Glen Esk but it was lovely to be stepping out into the peace and tranquility again. Bagged up and ready to go, I headed past the curiously named 'House of Mark' (he wisnae aboot) and it's sign directing you to Mt Keen. The path was superb and as the glen opened up, I could even see as far as the path ascending up past the Ladder Burn, which was maybe 4 or 5 km in the distance. A few walkers were out and about and it wasn't long before I walked past the Queen's Well, which was itself a major public health problem - the water was stagnant and I doubt HRH drank from this in a past life.

 

As I walked past the wee hoose (how I'd love to live there), I noticed a curious bump off to the left, which looked like it might offer some decent rock-climbing - must check out that and see if it's recommended. The path meandered up on to the Knowe of Crippley (sp?) and before long, the cone of Mount Keen was clear. t had been fairly benign weather conditions to this point but a cold Easterly wind called for the waterproofs especially as sleet was being deposited on one. The trig point was tagged and a fab view over to Lochnagar was in evidence. t really is a fine view point and I could see Bennachie to the North. A wee howf has been fashioned just beside the trig point and i had a spot of lunch in the shelter and relished the peace and quiet. The return leg was very straightforward and I would definitely recommend this Munro as a relaxing wander, with little effort to ascend to the summit. It would also be a great Winter walk but I don't know how good the road would be from Tarfside to the car park (about 4 miles). The book-time says 3 hours 10 to the summit but I did this walk in just under 4 hours so it's a very generous time to ascend. I did run down from the summit to the wee house but all in all, this was a very relaxing walk and not a swine in sight. Bad joke time - man goes to the doctor and says 'Doc, I think I had swine flu, I've had symptoms for one weeeeeeeeeeek....'

Beinn a Ghlo

The forecast was excellent and I decided on heading back to Beinn a Ghlo after my failed attempt in February to even get as far as the car park at Loch Moraig. Visibility wasn't the best but it promised to be a hot one later so I lathered the Factor 25 on to my coupon. The route was clear and the scar of a path was prominent on the face of Carn Liath. A fellow padder was heading for Carn nan Gabhar as he had already done the two other Munro's - I jokingly said I'd race him as he was walking along the glen and while we laughed it off, competitive Kev had to try and burn round. So, I set off at a good pace and happened along the wee hut at the side of the land rover track. From here, I headed across the heather for the path proper and it wasn't long before I was ascending. Having boosted the fitness on Meagaidh a few weeks ago, it wasn't long before I was high up and the only thing that stopped me were a flying group of geese, directly above me. I stopped and listened to their cries and the beating of their wings en masse, it was quite beautiful. Avian aesthetics aside, I tore up the final part and walked along to the summit trig point. I could now see my objectives 2 and 3.

I didn't hang about and ran down to the col between the 1st and 2nd Munro and here i disturbed two wee ptarmigan. I hadn't noticed before that one particular gender has a wee red crop on its head and rather than them flying off, they just sat on the two rocks - can you see them? I began the ascent up towards the 2nd Munro (unpronounceable) and it wasn't long before I was at the 2nd summit - it was notably colder here and I could feel that extra 100m difference. I had a sandwich here and a glug of water - what a superb day. The sun rays were beginning to break through and the surrounding peaks looked fab, though it was still hazy into the distance. I headed towards my final objective of the day and was quickly down to the bealach before Airgiod Bheinn. I took a wee rest here and could see a figure up ahead - could that have been the boy I spoke to at the car park? No time to waste, I began the final push up towards Carn nan Gabhar and pushed on to the huge cairn. Moving on from here, I headed to the trig point but there was another cairn in the distance. I rounded this to greet the guy I spoke to at the car park. We both agreed it was a fantastic day but rather than enjoy a leisurely lunch, I got a text with some news that my sister-in-law-to-be was taken into hospital. No time to waste, I began the return journey and headed back as quickly as I could. It was a boggy descent off Airgiod Bheinn but once back on the land rover track, I made good progress. By the time I got back to the car park, I had completed the circuit in just over 5 hours but I was absolutely buggered. Not only that but by the time I got back to Glasgow, my future sis-2-b was a lot better and ready for discharge. Typical. It had been a great round but am struggling to stay awake as I type. I forgot to mention the incredible array of bird-sound at the Loch - it was quite stunning and the full round in Summer is one I'd recommend.

Carn Liath and Stob Coire Poite Ardair

So, after my Drumochter sojourn the day before, the forecast was for much better conditions. Thankfully, that was good news because I planned to go for something a little more scenic on the Tuesday - Carn Liath and Stob Coire Poite Ardair and perhaps Creag Meagaidh, if I had enough time. After a great cooked breakfast at 'The Rumblie' in Laggan Bridge, I motored along to the Creag Meagaidh Nature Reserve and parked up. Jamie Andrew and some kids were also setting off though they were only heading up to look at the cliffs. Nice chap. I set off on the superb path and it wasn't long before I had reached quite far into the corrie and could vaguely make out the cliffs though there was quite a bit of cloud. I began my ascent up on to Na Cnapnachan (sp?) but had obviously missed the 'prescribed' route up as I ascended above it on to the shoulder of Carn Liath. The view across to Sron a Choire was fabulous. I then pushed on up on towards Carn Liath and atypically, I reached the huge cairn with little fuss.

The weather seemed like it was improving - should I go on to Stob PCA? I began piling over the broad expanse of hills (Meall an t-Snaim) and made good progress. Stob PCA was up ahead and slightly covered in cloud but the route was clear. After I had touched the cairn, I battered on to the Window but didn't think I had enough time to go for Creag Meagaidh itself. Reluctantly, I began to descend down the snow, conscious of any unstable snow-pack. However, it was firm and I pelted down towards the lochan. Looking back, I got a great photo of a plane flying 'through the window'. Once at the lochan, the views up to the cliffs were astounding and i took hunners o photaes. After packing my gear away, I enjoyed the long walk back along the path, looking back every so often to catch those superb views. It was a fantastic Winter day out with the sun shining brightly - a wee Red Cuillin was in the fridge back at the B&B - life is sweet!

A' Bhuidheanach Bheag

Having been thwarted twice in February by inclement weather, I had booked 2 days near Laggan to get some Winter walking done. I thought a relatively easy day near Drumochter would be good for the Monday leading me nicely into Tuesday for the Creag Meagaidh group, weather pendingish. As I got out of the wee car park at the side of the A9, I couldn't help but notice how much bloody snow had fallen. True, I could pick out the path leading up to the col but after that I thought it would be compass work galore. Looking over to A'Mharconaich, she looked resplendent and visibility (at this level) was excellent.

I began the walk up the path but it wasn't long before I had to avoid thigh-deep snow and it also wasn't long before the cloud moved in and it began to snow. I pushed on to the col and while the weather wasn't great, I decided to take a compass bearing due South, look out for the fence posts and press on. I passed the cairn at A Bhuidheanach but there were no fence posts to be seen. By this point, there was little visibility and I had to trust the compass and keep heading South. Well, I felt like I had been walking for hours and seriously began to wonder if I had made the right decision. I'm not afraid to say I was a little worried as I knew I had reached the plateau out but could I find that bloody cairn or those fence posts? Thankfully, just as I was about to head West and get off the bloody hill, the weather improved, the cloud lifted and the best fence post I'd ever seen was about 100m to my left. I wasted little time and running towards it and in the distance, I could see the trig point. Thank f**k.

I had a wee cup of coffee and then took another bearing West before setting off. The descent wasn't much better as once again the snow started and I didn't have a scooby-doo if I was going in the right direction. Trusting the compass though, I began to descend and when I walked a bit further, the welcome view of a burn was upon me. Scaring mountain hares, ptarmigan and deer, I made my way back to the A9 at Drumochter Lodge, before the last mile or so to the car. I have read that these hills are considered boring. Well, my advice is to try them in Winter, when conditions are awful as it certainly gives you a wee buzz and also reinforces how much ye need to trust thon compass.