Monday, 29 April 2013

Beinn nan Aighenan through Glen Kinglas



This was perhaps one of the most sorely needed trips I had ever experienced. The weeks at work building up to this were very tough and the fall-through of a house sale meant that I was physically in demand of something long and tough. The route into Glen Kinglas is excellent and took me past Beinn Suidhe. From here, it was virgin territory. After a 11km hike, to begin the real ascent was tough but once on to the ridge, the wildness was obvious with no clear path. After hitting the summit, I spoke to a chap and his son before descending into Coire Caim and the walk back past the old shielings. A long walk out was then endured with music keeping me going for the last hour or so. The route along the South of Beinn nan Aighenan is seldom walked and it really is a remote part of Scotland. Loch Dochard with Meall nan Eun is a beautiful place to while away some time. A very tough but memorable Munro.

Friday, 12 April 2013

Sublime Slioch

There are a number of hills in Scotland which evoke a sense of respect and admiration. Slioch (Sleagach) is 'the spear' and as the buttresses sit majestically above Loch Maree, one ponders how it could possible to ascend this behemoth. Fortunately, a nice meander along the loch and a walk up and into the coire is relatively straightforward. From there, the impressive coire cannot fail to bewitch. I had chosen this hill prior to a WalkHighlands meet and had a number of accompanying walkers by the name of Evie, Ewan (her son), John and Pete from Forfar. It is impossible to tell how a group of individuals who have never met before will get on. However, as the weather was truly stunning, we all set off in good spirits along the track. Conscious that this would be a long walk, we reined in the pace from the start and got to know each other. I always feel that I'm not getting to know someone properly at the outset and find myself asking a barrage of questions. I'm not nosey, I just like to get an impression of my fellow humans. Fortuntately, everybody was easy company and we took a number of stops to rest up, hydrate and take in the magnificant views across the loch. On one of the rest stops, we came across a chap from Dumfries who was clearly struggling. We ascertained that he had not been able to procure a meal the night before and that his supper had consisted of 'beer and nuts - well a haundfae'. Plenty of calories right enough but perhaps the heat of the day was having an effect. We never saw him again after we passed him. Shortly after, we emerged into the coire and were met with the impressive mountain of Slioch. I think this may be one of the most impressive coires I've been in and Pete confirmed that. When pressed on his favourite peak, he told of the Cairngorms, where he had got married. It sounded like a great day and memories were fondly rekindled. I found myself selecting a line up the ridge to the left of me and it was quite awkward and steep with snow patches. I was annoyed myself when I looked back down and saw Evie struggling a bit. Her son went to help her and slipped about 10 feet. It was a bad error on my part and I quickly descended to see if they were okay. No issues and Ewan felt a bit daft but I should have known better in picking that route. We arrived on the ridge and took in the views once again. From here, the walk up to the two lochans was outstanding, with the vistas across to the loch, islands and sea, quite stunning. By this point, all the major peaks in the Beinn Eighe National park came into view. As we climbed up the zig-zag path, we gained real height but the summit was still some way beyond the trig point. We arrived at the cairn en masse and settled down to have some food and drink. I descended off the Western point down to a prong and revelled in the escapism of it all. This was indeed 'living the dream'. I wanted to go back over the Munro Top and all agreed that the ridge looked fine. Well, perhaps Evie wasn't convinced but she did remarkably well over the narrow arete. After the top, I romped East and down to the impressive North facing coire bowl. From here, I could see my future route into the Fisherfield 4, which I hadn't done. All that remained, was our steep descent into the coire, where we re-fuelled with fresh water and the long walk back out, all in high spirits. When Pete later wrote on WH that Sloich had become his favourite hill, that truly encapsulated our cameraderie, this stunning mountain and how good it is to be in the hills with your fellow man.



Sunday, 24 February 2013

Conival & Ben Mor Assynt - astounding.


On a trip North to Achiltibuie, I had decided I would take in these two Munros. The weather forecast was fantastic and I left the 'buie at 0715, while still in darkness. The wee road twists for 16 miles and I didn't reach the main road until 0745 and Inchnadamph until 0810. I had promised that I would be back by 1430 so I had 6 hours to get it done. The walk up the glen was pleasant with Conival in view the whole way. It got bigger and more ominous, the closer I approached. The steep ascent to the bealach began and was indeed, quite steep. However, the views back across the land were fantastic, especially the Eastern crags of Breabag. It looked a complex hill and one I was looking forward to. My pace was exceptional to this point and as I climbed the last of the crags before the bealach, I was there in 1.5 hours. I emerged on to the bealach and was confronted by a magical sight down across Coire a Mhadaidh. The buttress of the hill to the left plunged into a dark and cloudy void, while the clarity above the cloud was quite special. I could see as far as Foinaven and Ben Hope. I began the final ascent up on to the Munro and the Western face plunged away below me. The summit is an amazing place to rest for a while and take in the next objective. I assessed the ridge as the last 100m were quite icy in places. Previous footprints looked to have made a decent route across to Ben Mor Assynt. I descended off the 1st Munro and began the enjoyable strut over to the 2nd Munro, taking in the loch and dark crags to the South of Ben Mor Assynt. By 3 hours, I was sitting on the 2nd Munro and relishing the views up to Ben Hope, which had cleared. The return back and over the route was brilliant, with the views being second to none. Christmas pudding was taken and it tasted beautiful. One of the best hill day experiences yet.

Sunday, 10 February 2013

Walking on the Moon, Bhrotain-style

As I drove up the A93 in gradually deteriorating conditions, I was amazed at the wilderness which developed before me. The Cairngorms were clad in Winter claes and The Police were playing in the car. Sometimes I get an idea for a title report and their song would be very apt. I slalomed into the Linn of Dee car park and was fortunate that Graeme D and a couple of other very helpful chaps were able to push me back out. Was this a bad omen? Once we had packed and attempted to help an unfortunate Yaris owner with 3 functioning tyres, we started the walk along the Land rover track to White Bridge. This allowed us to catch up since our last sojourn and clearly a lot had happened. A throwaway 'Alles in Ordnung' phrase at work had prompted an unbelievable 20 minute discussion, typical of current NHS corporate mentalities. Graeme said that in future it would be wise to use Hebrew.


The glen was white and the cloud level was very low. We doubted whether a view would be had from the top, if we got there. The 'if' being dependent on how deep the snow would be. After crossing White Bridge, we began the walk up to the Chest of Dee and were surprised by how firm the ground was. After 1 hr 45, we were at the bottom of Carn Fiachlach Beag and began the ascent. Soft snow rapidly became harder as we climbed and I proclaimed at 645m, we only had 500m to go with 2 miles of distance - could it really be so straightforward in such seemingly difficult conditions? The answer of course was no and I donned my goggles as the increasing blankness of the landscape began to strain my eyes. We could have been walking on the moon for all we could see. And we certainly weren't taking giant steps. We plunged off 3 foot shelves and had gaits of drunk men, laughing and cursing at the same time. Erufoh, ceerobee.

The climb up on to Carn-Clioch-Muillin (946m) was tough and the minutes flew past. Unfortunately, from here it was a descent down terrain that defied gravity - were we going up, were we going down? Reliance on the compass, map and sat nav saw us at the rime-iced trig point and summit cairn in 4 hours and 40 minutes of tough walking. I hacked at the ice, just to make sure the trig point was there. I wouldn't be back for a second time. Instead of re-tracing our steps, we descended due East and took turns to stumble and bum-slide our way to the bottom of the hill and back to the track. From here, we had the long and increasingly sore walk back to the car. Caffeine-fuelled chocolate were small comfort but after 8.5 hours, we finally reached the Linn of Dee. A very hard-earned tick and Graeme's 141st Munro. 





Tuesday, 22 January 2013

It takes two to Teanga




I had last attempted this hill with someone who was not the full shilling. Cramp, fatigue and requests to walk shorter strides fell on my ears before a daft comment 'I'll need medevac'd, Kev", had me reminiscing and laughing at the same time. This time I set out alone and fairly motored along the land rover track to the large boulder. I had been passed by a cycling triumvirate who I would meet later on. The 'tag team' and resultant high fives most likely left them a little bemused. The steep ascent through the forest brought me out at good height as I headed towards the Cam Bhealach. Indeed, my pace saw me catching those up ahead and I was making rapid progress. At the bealach, I ignored the large group sat chatting and continued on my way. Sauchiehall St does not appeal, when I am walking in the hills - nothing unsociable, I just like to relax and concentrate on the task in hand. Plus it was chilly-kind. As I meandered around the first hill, a chap approached and introduced himself as David Marshall. A nice bloke and we chatted all the way to the summit. He even had a neighbour who I knew through work - a sma world.

The wind at the summit was brutal and any exposed flesh was petrified within seconds. We scuttled down the West side of the hill and took our lunch and tea. Bliss. A text to Em-pem and I asked David to carry on to get some perspective in my photograph. At that moment, the large crowd ascended and we bid them farewell. David continued on to the second Munro but I had fulfilled my objective for the day and made a very enjoyable and relaxing jaunt back to the car in 4.5 hours. A cracking excursion and one that did indeed require two to Teanga. The day had a sad twist in the tail as I drove back via Glencoe and was privy to the emergency services overtaking me at high speed. My suspicions were confirmed later that evening and my thoughts are with their families.

Saturday, 22 December 2012

Governed by the Gaor-Bheinn-or



It had been 4 months since I'd set foot on a Munro. While I had done a few Corbetts and Grahams, I had missed the big hills. A 2 hr 45 drive saw me at the bottom of the forest track, where an unhelpful woman wouldn't let me know whether I had parked in an okay place. I absolutely belted along the forest track, past the cute wee house of Wauchan. As the forest was left behind, my task ahead grew larger. The two Grahams to the right would keep for another day and there was a nice bealach between them. I sat at the bottom and had some food, putting off the inevitable. The book describes it as a steep and unrelenting climb, which is entirely accurate. However, it made for a fairly rapid ascent. Once point  855m was reached, I was in the clouds and the snow started. At this point, hill fitness wasn't as good as it has been and I struggled to the trig point. I couldn't hang about and took a bearing for the ridge. The amount of snow was incredible with huge ice cream waves. It was frustratingly slow as I couldn't see the way ahead. Cramps in my thighs and calves kicked in. I seemed to go on forever but eventually, the narrowing ridge brought me to the large cairn. I had a cup of tea, some food and considered where I would head off the ridge. I got back to the bealach and descended West as the map looked crag-less. It was very steep though and I had to ice-arrest several times. In retrospect, it was daft but surprisingly I did find other footsteps. We're a funny bunch. Once down at 523m, the walk back out was uncomplicated and I got back to the car in 6 hours 20. They won't come much tougher.

Monday, 10 September 2012

After induction..the Beinn Dearg 4

Since my last Munro outing, I became an uncle to little Freddie. A humbling experience and the wonder of a new human life. Everything pales into comparison when you see how helpless they are but fortunately my sister-in-law's boobs provide his worldly energy requirements. And so I drove North to UHI student induction and having induced/ducted them into the way of the Masters, I had myself a deserved day off. I started from Inverlael at 0930 and began the long walk in along the excellent track and then path. My targets seemed quite a way off but it was a good walk in, which climbed steadily to the bifurcation of tracks. I went grande first and headed for Dearg and the famine wall. An extraordinary feat and testament to the amazing efforts of yesteryear, driven by a paltry wage so the hungry could eat.  The climb beside the wall, led me to the last rise up to Beinn Dearg but the cloud came in and I sat in blind cloudy silence, while having lunch. The silence and calmness was quite strange. I descended back to the origin of the wall and then headed for Cona Mheall. The view from this bealach is extraordinary. An easy climb and a very surprising view opened up across to Am Faochagach. The view back over to Beinn Dearg was great too but the jewel in the crown was the splendid An Sgurr over on Seana Braigh. I will definitely do that via Corriemulzie.




As I descended, I scared a hare and a couple of ptarmigan, which were turning white already. From here, it was round/over the bump before the climb up to Meall nan Ceapreachean. A harsh wind hit me at the summit and I struggled to remain upright, while appreciating distant Stac Pollaidh and the Summer Isles - next week! I didn't dally and checked the map before the descent - it looked uncomplicated aside from rock bands further down. Ha! This was a tricky descent as the rock and grass was very slippy. I was thankful to get down to the stream, where I left my rucksack for the final climb up on to Eididh. I was surprising how fit I felt and I was at both cairns before too long, as the wind dropped and the sun emerged once more to broil my coupon. All that remained was the final descent and long walk back out. I tried to relax and enjoy the walk out but my tootsies were hoitin. I saw a bike at the re-entrance at the forest and for a brief moment, considered pinching it for the ride out. I banished the thought and wondered where that had come from. I got back to the car and raced to Inverness to have dinner for a fantastic night's sleep at the Torguish hotel. Fab four.