An Riabhachan from Glen Strathfarrar

 Finally, at the 4th time of asking I climbed this bugger. It’s a long way in and out no matter how you come at it. I opted for this approach as it’s a decent path to its base. I parked at the dam and immediately the rain came on. It would get worse. I yomped round to the power station quickly and it was a case of rain for 20 mins, sun for 20 mins. As I got higher, it would change between hail and snow. But I thoroughly enjoyed the wildness and solitude. I never saw a soul all day until almost back at the car. There were plenty of deer around though and they dashed for cover when I got to the shoulder of my climb. The snowfields above disappeared into the clag. Inviting me into Winter. As I climbed, I realised this was a big hill at 1129m. I eventually reached the snow clad cairn and sent a text home. I didn’t hang around and dropped down quickly. The return was straightforward but still a long walk out. A 6-hour walk with 22.5km and 1100m ascent. Tough but satisfying to finally experience this one to its fullest. 

Sgurr a Mhadaidh & Sgurr a Ghreadaidh

Our second day on Skye saw us enjoy a relaxed breakfast at the lodge, with a nice drive round into Glen Brittle to meet Iain Mackay, our guide for the ridge. While in theory three Munros were planned today, I would be happy to do the two and I figured that would also suit Ayman. The weather was fine and without the midge, we waited for Iain to arrive at the car park. It was a fine place to rest and take in the Cuillins. Once Iain arrived, we had a chat about the theory and the practicality of what lay ahead. As we walked up the path, he pointed out An Dorus (the door) and discussed what the climb would entail. I could sense that Ayman was a bit apprehensive but Iain also was good at distraction by pointing out the fauna on the ground - blaeberries, bog myrtle, and some plant known to give off certain qualities for men who could not be turned on by the views before them. 

The cascading waterfalls were lovely and it was such a pleasure to be out walking in this environment. We eventually stopped on a grassy ledge to the side of the scree coming down from An Dorus and it was here, we adorned harness and helmet. Now, having walked upwards on scree many times, I was comfortable but as we climbed, I could see Ayman was struggling a little and breathing hard. I knew he was fit so suspected he was a bit stressed by the environment. Sgurr Thuilm sweeped away to our left and with the cliffs of Mhadaidh and Ghreadaidh immediately looming above us, it was understandable. As we made our way on to the final climb to Mhadaidh, Ayman was concerned at what was above us. We sat down and relaxed (well I did) before deciding to push on. About 15 minutes after some decent paths and climbs, we arrived at the summit cairn of Sgurr a Mhadaidh - what a place!

The view across the Sgurr a Ghreadaigh was stunning and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alasdair added a nice touch to the view behind. The Wart was impressive, just sitting off the main ridge to our 2nd objective.

Once we descended back to a safe place, Ayman had decided he was happy with his lot and would stay wrapped up just down and to the North of An Dorus. We came across a young lady and her guide who had been on the ridge since 0200 - she was going for the full traverse and still had a smile on her face. One could not fail to be impressed by her endeavour and energy. A superb effort. We left Ayman and said we'd be about 45 minutes so to rest up. Iain and I climbed to An Dorus and it was an enjoyable wee climb out of that and on Ghreadaidh. From here, it was relatively easy ground especially as it was dry and walking on the gabbro was a joy. The Eag Dubh was a fine slash in the rock with a super view. As we climbed past the Wart, we strode on to what i thought was the summit in the distance - Iain said I'd walked past the cairn! I was looking at the South Summit. Conscious of Ayman back at his resting spot, we returned quickly down the ridge and re-joined him for the walk out. He had enjoyed his time at the spot, relaxing and enjoying the moment. And I was elated at grabbing these two fantastic peaks with only Banachdich left to do on Skye.

The walk back to the car was very relaxing once off the scree and we had a fine chat discussing all things Skye and Scotland. It had been a great couple of days on this island - there really is nowhere like Skye. What it takes from you in skin and bruises, it more than gives back in memories.

Bla Bheinn

For a long time, I had truly believed that Bla Bheinn would be my last Munro. However, once I had booked Sconser Lodge hotel for a couple of days with my good friend, Ayman, I had other ideas. The intention of the two days was to finish the 4 Munros I had on Skye but this would necessitate great weather, and an appreciation that Ayman had never set foot on Skye, never mind the gabbro. The forecast was good but one has to be sensible (to a degree) on Skye and so my plan was to introduce Ayman to the Cuillins by taking on Bla Bheinn after our long drive North. as we drove down the wee road to Torrin, the clag was low down so I wasn't sure we should do it, especially if it was raining. We sat and had a coffee in the wee cafe in Torrin and assessed the mountain - I swear I could see the clag lifting. We agreed that a wee walk up to the waterfall was the least we should do, and then see how things go.

We drove round and parked up in the car park. It was mild but still claggy and while I really wanted to add to the Munro count today, I also wanted to ensure it was a memorable experience for the right reasons. We needn't have worried. We headed up the excellent path alongside the allt, and while the clag didn't lift entirely, we had snippets of what loomed above. 

We eventually passed the waterfall and after a couple of kilometres, we crossed the allt to start the climb proper. The path was generally good but on occasions would peter out, or we had come off it. This wasn't a problem until at around 550m, we encountered a funnel of rock that seemed to take us into quite steep ground. We took our time and then continued the climb up until we reached a cairn and the path was visible. 

From here, it was an entertaining walk up past the Great Prow and exploring some of the chasms that yawned away North of the hill. Dramatic stuff. After a couple of hours, we then began the final rise to the summit trig point and topped out somewhat disappointingly without a view. That all said, we had a great time just focusing on the rock and path, distracting us from work pressures and tasks. 

Munro 275 was in the bag and we began the descent back down the hill, picking the best route down which caused no difficulty. Ayman handled the terrain well (his 2nd Munro!) and i was confident, he'd be ok on the ridge from a technical perspective. But could he handle the open and vast space below him if it was a clear day???? Our plan was the ridge from Sgurr a Mhadaidh to Sgurr Banachdich so it would really be a different challenge. Tune in for that installment!

Ruadh Stac Mor

After my failure on An Riabhaichan in March, I was keen to re-start the Munros - I had been out runnign and cycling and my hernia repair was fully recovered. With some time off, I decided to head to the North-West and with a decent forecast, Fisherfield was front of mind. Indeed, the last success Munro-wise was A Mhaighdean, that most splendid of hills. Could this experience beat it? The plan was to walk in from Poolewe, an area I hadn't experienced before. That in itself was exciting, and although the drive was long, I was in the wee parking area for noon. That gave me a good 9 hours of light to hit the Munro and get back down to wherever I camped. 

As I set off, it was unseasonably chilly and as I moved further East it felt like some sea haar was accompanying me. Virtually no views and clag level was down to about 1000 ft. This wouldn't do but I had confidence that things would improve and so it proved. I had walked the first 10km in 2 hours and was flying along. At this point, the cliffs of Beinn Airigh Charr were coming into view, and as the day warmed up, so was the mightily impressive arena of Fisherfield - I could now begin to see across the bastion of rock that surrounded Fionn Loch and Dubh Loch. After another hour of walking, I reached the causeway. There is something about reading certain points in hill environments and seeing them. 

Just past the causeway, I set up camp and the first blue in the sky was popping through. From here, I estimated it was a good 5 mile climb up to Ruadh Stac Mor. I left camp at 1515 and enjoyed the easy climb up to the bealach - the views now were outstanding. 

Once up to the wee lochain past Carnan Ban, I wend my way up towards the bealach between RSM and A Mhaighdean. From here, the views were quite incredible - what a place!

There was still a fair bit of snow on the North facing slope/ridge of AM. The temperature had really dropped and I donned some warmer clothing for the final climb up Ruadh Stac Mor - I was surprised how exposed some of the climbing was but reached the top quite quickly and it felt great being back in Fisherfield for the final Munro summit. 

Rather than head down the same way, I headed North and negotiated the boulders on an easier slope. Although a little tricky, it wasn't long before I was down near Lochan a Braghad and I walked back round to meet up with the path near Fuar Loch Mor. The descent back to camp was beautiful and once back at camp for 1915, all that remained was to get dinner cooking, a wee dram, and to chill out in my tent listening to birdsong and the lapping of the loch waves. The following day, i would wake at 0600, have breakfast and pack up only to walk the 17km back to the car in a little under 4 hours. Fisherfield - there's nowhere like it.

A Mhaighdean

Foolishly (?), I decided to tackle this from Incheril near Kinlochewe. I had been into Fisherfield this way before and I remember the walk into Lochan Fada as being decent and bike-able. However, I did not bank on the lack of path thereafter to A Mhaighdean or the near lack of running water to top up hydration stocks. There had been several weeks of dry, warm weather so I was looking forward to a high camp near the summit. Plus, I felt confident in my fitness. Perhaps over-confidence got the better of me.

I had a nice drive up to Incheril and arrived just before 1400. Got the MTB assembled and was good to go and head into Glean na Muice. I had left a note to MrsP saying Incheril but then forgot to tell her which hills. That played on my mind right until I got reception precisely 5 hours later.

It was a joy cycling the first 5km, but then the path rises steeply and it was sweaty work to the bridge. I decided to leave the bike just past the bridge, then walk. It was very warm and I was sweating profusely. By the time I got to Lochan Fada, I realised I was 750ml down with 500ml left. A Mhaighdean looked far off and I estimated it would take me a couple of hours hard walking across lumpy ground, under Beinn Tarsuinn.

I began the traverse below Beinn Tarsuinn but it was slow progress. I did find a clear running burn and topped up another 500ml. I would boil it later. This left me with 1 litre and I was still drinking. I made it to Pollan na Muice and took in the splendour of Fisherfield. What a wondrous land it is. I slowed as I climbed up to a point at 780m, where I set up camp. A bit of food, and I began the final climb to A Mhaighdean. The summit and views are everything in the books and more. Mind-blowing. With a lovely breeze, I checked in with Mrs P and advised of plan for next morning. I would come back to Ruadh Stac Mor again from the West. I descended, rehydrated, ate and chilled. I wake at 0130 with a snipe drumming. Had no idea what it was. Actually thought it might be a UFO!

I awoke at 0415 next morning, packed up and retraced my steps to bike and then car. Back by 0800 and then a stop at the Midge Bite for a wondrous breakfast. Super experience.

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

I had long eyed this one from near Fain, and a MTB to break up the distance. I got to the parking area for about 1420 and got the bike set up, as well as packing as much as I could into the day-pack. The forecast was to improve as the day progressed but it was very wrong. I fair motored along the Land Rover track to Loch a Bhraoin bothy and beyond that, perhaps another kilometre. At this point, the path deteriorated so it was with much regret, that I abandoned the bike and started the walk down to Loch an Nid. The Munro soared above me but this was a point of absolute remoteness. It would be lovely to take the tent here on a warm summer's day, with a breeze to keep the midges away. I began the plod up past the massive granite cascade of rock and looked back as the rain moved in. A rainbow lit up the glen below. Beautiful.

From here, conditions worsened and the clag moved as well as some persistent snow showers. I was glad I had all the gear on and once up the steepening slopes, it was a case of careful boulder-hopping to the surprisingly small summit cairn. I didn't fancy the return the way I came so I headed South and down the ridge to the point below Meall Garbh. From here, it was a boggy return through Coire Mhic Fhearchair and then to the Bealach na Croise. From here, I headed back to the path just East of Loch an Nid, and found my bike. It was a slow bike ride back to the car and I made it just as dusk was setting in. All that remained was the long drive home but I felt energised by my 272nd Munro - 10 to go!

Bidean a Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor