Ladhar Bheinn - Compleation!

So after 24 years, the day finally arrived. Myself and Graeme headed to Mallaig for the 0730 sailing to Inverie. There were only 6 passengers on the boat but we were treated to an amazing sunrise. There is something magical about Knoydart. Whether it’s the difficulty of getting there, the difficulty of the hills, or the difficulty in explaining to people where it is, it’s unique! What follows are a few photos of what was a superb day. From the dusting of snow on Ladhar Bheinn, the views from the mountain itself, good company, and a super evening, it was a privilege to have lived long enough to experience such days. Ladhar Bheinn itself must be one of the best mountains in the UK. And now that the Munros are done, I turn my attention to other mountains and challenges that are life-affirming.

Sgurr na Banachdich

A high pressure over the NW Highlands and I had to take advantage of it. I left the house at 1300 and drove North to the Cluanie Inn, where i had a cracking meal and a nice beer. I did a wee walk after to try and relax but sleep did not come easy. I was gone by 0615 and enjoyed the quiet drive to Glen Brittle. I stopped to watch the sun rise over Glamaig which was special. I parked up and re-traced my steps along the path up to Coire a Ghreadaidh, where I had been in May. However, this time I took the path into Coire Eich. It was a sustained climb into this magnificent amphitheatre. I headed for An Diallaid and kept left, which was a fab way to ascend this hill. Once past this, the climb to the summit was sublime, with fine views back to Sgùrr Nan Ghobar. But the real drama was at the summit with the ridge to Ghreadaidh south summit, the star. Mind you, the cloud inversion over the sea to Rhum wasn’t bad! I would have had no issue if this was my last Munro but still a top 10 day. And now, eyes turn to Knoydart and Ladhar Bheinn, my last Munro….

Spidean a’ Choire Leith (Liathach)

Just waited for the right day for this stunning mountain. A steep ascent up the path to the bealach between the Munro and Munro top, and I was blown away by the majesty of this hill and its surroundings. Definitely in my top 5 of hills. 280 down, 2 to go….i have the stare.

Mullach an Rathain (Western Munro of Liathach)

I seem absolutely determined to make the compleation of these Munros difficult. Rather than the traverse of Liathach and sticking two in the bag, no, I decided a wild camp at the Western end would be better. But actually, perhaps I am just prolonging the Munro experience. I don’t want them to run out. And with that, I still have 3 to go, with 3 separate trips to do. That’s ok by me. And this experience was tremendous.

Ayman made a decision to head North with family and we quickly made a plan to do at least one of the Liathach hills. I was working until lunch so we didn’t arrive at the Beinn Alligin car park until 1730. With heavy packs, we’d head up Coire Mhic Nobaill along the track to the bridge then a line up Sgorr a Chadail. It was a lovely if not fresh evening with a wind blowing from the South. 

The yomp up Sgorr a Chadail with heavy packs was tough and Ayman was struggling a little. I should have picked up on this. We found a decent wee platform at about 580m and set up camp. We decided to pop up on to the ridge and possibly grab the Munro before sundown but time and light was against us. We did get tremendous views back to Beinn Alligin but decided to bag the Munro next morning. A fairly restless night ensued and at 0645, we packed up to bag the hill and down the hill path proper to the road. We faced all the elements and were glad to get back to the road, for the long walk back to the car. Can’t wait to return to the other side. 

An Riabhachan from Glen Strathfarrar

 Finally, at the 4th time of asking I climbed this bugger. It’s a long way in and out no matter how you come at it. I opted for this approach as it’s a decent path to its base. I parked at the dam and immediately the rain came on. It would get worse. I yomped round to the power station quickly and it was a case of rain for 20 mins, sun for 20 mins. As I got higher, it would change between hail and snow. But I thoroughly enjoyed the wildness and solitude. I never saw a soul all day until almost back at the car. There were plenty of deer around though and they dashed for cover when I got to the shoulder of my climb. The snowfields above disappeared into the clag. Inviting me into Winter. As I climbed, I realised this was a big hill at 1129m. I eventually reached the snow clad cairn and sent a text home. I didn’t hang around and dropped down quickly. The return was straightforward but still a long walk out. A 6-hour walk with 22.5km and 1100m ascent. Tough but satisfying to finally experience this one to its fullest. 

Sgurr a Mhadaidh & Sgurr a Ghreadaidh

Our second day on Skye saw us enjoy a relaxed breakfast at the lodge, with a nice drive round into Glen Brittle to meet Iain Mackay, our guide for the ridge. While in theory three Munros were planned today, I would be happy to do the two and I figured that would also suit Ayman. The weather was fine and without the midge, we waited for Iain to arrive at the car park. It was a fine place to rest and take in the Cuillins. Once Iain arrived, we had a chat about the theory and the practicality of what lay ahead. As we walked up the path, he pointed out An Dorus (the door) and discussed what the climb would entail. I could sense that Ayman was a bit apprehensive but Iain also was good at distraction by pointing out the fauna on the ground - blaeberries, bog myrtle, and some plant known to give off certain qualities for men who could not be turned on by the views before them. 

The cascading waterfalls were lovely and it was such a pleasure to be out walking in this environment. We eventually stopped on a grassy ledge to the side of the scree coming down from An Dorus and it was here, we adorned harness and helmet. Now, having walked upwards on scree many times, I was comfortable but as we climbed, I could see Ayman was struggling a little and breathing hard. I knew he was fit so suspected he was a bit stressed by the environment. Sgurr Thuilm sweeped away to our left and with the cliffs of Mhadaidh and Ghreadaidh immediately looming above us, it was understandable. As we made our way on to the final climb to Mhadaidh, Ayman was concerned at what was above us. We sat down and relaxed (well I did) before deciding to push on. About 15 minutes after some decent paths and climbs, we arrived at the summit cairn of Sgurr a Mhadaidh - what a place!

The view across the Sgurr a Ghreadaigh was stunning and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alasdair added a nice touch to the view behind. The Wart was impressive, just sitting off the main ridge to our 2nd objective.

Once we descended back to a safe place, Ayman had decided he was happy with his lot and would stay wrapped up just down and to the North of An Dorus. We came across a young lady and her guide who had been on the ridge since 0200 - she was going for the full traverse and still had a smile on her face. One could not fail to be impressed by her endeavour and energy. A superb effort. We left Ayman and said we'd be about 45 minutes so to rest up. Iain and I climbed to An Dorus and it was an enjoyable wee climb out of that and on Ghreadaidh. From here, it was relatively easy ground especially as it was dry and walking on the gabbro was a joy. The Eag Dubh was a fine slash in the rock with a super view. As we climbed past the Wart, we strode on to what i thought was the summit in the distance - Iain said I'd walked past the cairn! I was looking at the South Summit. Conscious of Ayman back at his resting spot, we returned quickly down the ridge and re-joined him for the walk out. He had enjoyed his time at the spot, relaxing and enjoying the moment. And I was elated at grabbing these two fantastic peaks with only Banachdich left to do on Skye.

The walk back to the car was very relaxing once off the scree and we had a fine chat discussing all things Skye and Scotland. It had been a great couple of days on this island - there really is nowhere like Skye. What it takes from you in skin and bruises, it more than gives back in memories.

Bla Bheinn

For a long time, I had truly believed that Bla Bheinn would be my last Munro. However, once I had booked Sconser Lodge hotel for a couple of days with my good friend, Ayman, I had other ideas. The intention of the two days was to finish the 4 Munros I had on Skye but this would necessitate great weather, and an appreciation that Ayman had never set foot on Skye, never mind the gabbro. The forecast was good but one has to be sensible (to a degree) on Skye and so my plan was to introduce Ayman to the Cuillins by taking on Bla Bheinn after our long drive North. as we drove down the wee road to Torrin, the clag was low down so I wasn't sure we should do it, especially if it was raining. We sat and had a coffee in the wee cafe in Torrin and assessed the mountain - I swear I could see the clag lifting. We agreed that a wee walk up to the waterfall was the least we should do, and then see how things go.

We drove round and parked up in the car park. It was mild but still claggy and while I really wanted to add to the Munro count today, I also wanted to ensure it was a memorable experience for the right reasons. We needn't have worried. We headed up the excellent path alongside the allt, and while the clag didn't lift entirely, we had snippets of what loomed above. 

We eventually passed the waterfall and after a couple of kilometres, we crossed the allt to start the climb proper. The path was generally good but on occasions would peter out, or we had come off it. This wasn't a problem until at around 550m, we encountered a funnel of rock that seemed to take us into quite steep ground. We took our time and then continued the climb up until we reached a cairn and the path was visible. 

From here, it was an entertaining walk up past the Great Prow and exploring some of the chasms that yawned away North of the hill. Dramatic stuff. After a couple of hours, we then began the final rise to the summit trig point and topped out somewhat disappointingly without a view. That all said, we had a great time just focusing on the rock and path, distracting us from work pressures and tasks. 

Munro 275 was in the bag and we began the descent back down the hill, picking the best route down which caused no difficulty. Ayman handled the terrain well (his 2nd Munro!) and i was confident, he'd be ok on the ridge from a technical perspective. But could he handle the open and vast space below him if it was a clear day???? Our plan was the ridge from Sgurr a Mhadaidh to Sgurr Banachdich so it would really be a different challenge. Tune in for that installment!