Thursday 17 December 2009

Broad Cairn, Cairn Bannoch & Carn a'Choire Bhoideach




Booyacka! After a wee warm up on Bennachie the day before, I fancied something a little more tasty. The onerous drive from Aberdeenshire to Glasgow is always much better if driven via Braemar and there just so happens to be some hills over there. I drove down the wee road to Loch Muick and knew it was going to be a fine day. I actually felt a wee surge of adrenaline and excitement at the day's walking. The car park was chocca with folk no doubt heading for Lochnagar, which had looked amazing on the way to Ballater. I headed along the Loch Muick track and could see Broad Cairn in the distance. The Loch was amazingly still with not a breath of wind. It was still perishingly cold and I kept a good pace. I decided to head up the zig-zag path rather than walk the circuit path and up on to Broad Cairn. It wasn't long before my walk became high-level and I had a fine view down to Queen Victoria's retreat beside the Glas-Allt. What a fabulous place to reside. Tres jaloux. Ne'er mind, I pushed on and came across Sandy's seat; a wee bench beside a hut. I sat down and admired his view - rather serene. I began the final ascent up on to Broad Cairn and spotted my 2nd objective of the day not that far away - was it really a Munro? There didn't appear to be much up-and-down action (unlike Tiger Woods) however after a quick photo shoot of the crags and my 3rd objective in the distance, I walked on. The views just got better as I could see Braeriach et al in the distance. I clambered up on Cairn Bannoch and worked out my route over to Carn a'Choire Bhoideach. I skirted the bottom edge of Sagairt Mor and began a nice descent towards the burn. However, a wee icy bit of snow ensured a wee fall and I got to try out my ice-axe arrest. Nice to know it works in a slightly less serious situation. Should I don the crampons? I'd see how it was ascending the 3rd Munro. Nae too bad and while it was a struggle heading up on the summit, I got there. A rather flat and barren Munro with nae much character - not sure about the beautiful corrie tranlsation of the hill but heyho. I could now make out Lochnagar and it's cliffs. It would have looked amazing from Meikle Pap. I had to get going though and I began the walk down to the path via the Glas-Allt. Scared a wee feathered friend but it stood proud and accepted the offer of a photo. Time was pressing on and I was on texting duty to allay any fears. The Glencoe fatality the day before had made my other half a bit worried. Fair enough. The path down was treacherous in places due to ice. Care needed but eventually came back out on the land rover track and began the trek back. As the day wore on, the shadows lengthened and a pinky-orange tinge developed. The views back across Loch Muick during sunset were stunning and I could have stayed there for an age relishing the ever-changing hues. It was really breath-taking. What a fabulous day it had been.

Monday 30 November 2009

From Tarf to Beinn Dearg




Having had little sleep, copious Highland Park and a good breakfast, we cleared out of the Tarf hotel at 0900. Initially, we weren't sure what we all wanted to do. I should have insisted that Janet and I head out along the glen as it had been a tough day the day before but the lure of a Corbett or a Munro tempted me on with the rest of the group. We walked a good bit along the Tarf river and with Graeme deciding (wisely) on the Corbett, the rest of us pushed on up to Beinn Dearg. It was going to be a long day. It was bitterly cold but would only get more petrifying. The ascent was slow and eventually the going got easier as we hit the snow line. Views back across to An Sgarsoch and Carn an Fhidleir were excellent and as we got on to the plateau before the summit, we could see as far as Braeriach. John B was a godsend through this day, all encouraging us with his pleasant demeanour and bonhomie. We eventually summited on Beinn Dearg - the wind from the North was about 25-30 mph and it really dropped the temperature. Again, we didn't hang about and we made off for the land rover track out. A good 5-6 mile walk ensued with heavy feet, tired muscles and we were walking on fumes. It was headtorch time once again as we walked down to Old Blair. John opted to get the car while we looked after the packs and that man came and picked us up. It had been a long, long two days but deep down it had been a worthwhile experience. Cheers to John Burgess for his encouragement. I was just glad to be warm and eating anything that wasn't dessicated.

Carn a Chlamain



Had been planning a jaunt up to this hill with some walkers off WalkHighlands.co.uk. The intention was to then head over and into the Tarf hotel for the evening before potentially another M-point the next day. Having started at 1000 from Old Blair of Tilt, we felt there would be enough time to get to the bothy with daylight. Although we initially made good time up the excellent land rover track to Marble Lodge and beyond, the ascent up on to Carn a Chlamain was particularly tough with a packweight of ca. 25 kilos. Coal and malt - where would we be without it? Higher up I suspect. However, the track up on to Chlamain was good and it was the last 150m up to the summit that was really hard-going. Conditions were getting colder and we didn't hang about at the top. A few photos (Graeme looking like he'd sat on something cold) and off down towards the Tarf hotel, through almost icy snow - the North face had obviously been blasted by winds and it made the snow quite tricky to get down. Once below the snow line, as dusk approached, it was headtorch time and we very thankful that John B had lit a fire at the bothy a couple of hours later. Aching backs, weary legs and thirsty throats. Only a fire and a glass of malt could cure that.

Monday 16 November 2009

Beware the bite near Beinn Mhanach


Hill aficionados will be scratching their head at the title of my post. What could possibly go wrong on the benign Beinn Mhanach? I wanted to do this hill with a good pack on to prepare for the Tarf Bothy trip and I have to be honest in saying that I had been putting this Munro off for a while. It didn't appear to have much in the way of great views, crags and was a long walk-in. However, I parked up at 0830 beside the A82 and made good progress along the road passed some barking dogs (N.B. captive at this point). Also, came across a rather insidious looking sheep, which looked like it had been plugged into the mains. Not long after, I had to make a tip toe crossing over the Allt Kinglas and it wouldn't be the last time. You have to do this 7 times on the way into Beinn Mhanach and obviously on the way back out so a dry day is best, particularly for this hill. As it was, I was adept at stepping on stones without falling and the walk along the road was most enjoyable. The cliffs of Beinn a Chaisteal rise high on the right hand side and that was a Corbett I was definitely looking forward to. Beinn a Chuirn came into view at the viaduct and seemed a fair way off. I had been going a good while when I came across Duncan Ban MacIntyre's old howff - it appears to have been converted to a shearing site and there was a massive bag of wool in there. A good place for an emergency stop-off. What a wee place to have lived - so isolated. I never met a soul going in or out to this all day and for solitude, this is a great walk. I pushed on and began an ascending traverse up to Beinn Mhanach. Loch Lyon came into view as did Ben Challum but although it was covered in cloud, I could make out snow on its top. Would I experience that at the summit? No. It wasn't long before I entered clagville and I never saw anything of a view until I came back out of the cloud. I hit the summit cairn, took a wee coffee and sandwich and then re-traced my steps. At the fence-posts, I followed them down to the road. Uneventful, a Munro in the bag and what should be a nice easy amble home. And it was until I got past the last set of houses (the sign reads Fir Park). I never even heard the dirty little mutt until growling, it had its teeth firmly into my Scarpa boot and with a slight sphincter-twitch, I realised I was being mauled by some dark hound. It growled and snarled and I promptly kicked it in the face (sorry PETA lovers) and it relinquished its grip before running off quite unperturbed. I wasn't hurt but did think of others who may not be so lucky or have a fear of dogs. Be warned. I kept thinking if only I'd kicked in the scrot, it might have had to get prosthetic testes then when it dragged itself along the ground, you could say "Here Sparky!" Next stop - Tarf Bothy.

Sunday 25 October 2009

Munro-monster on Tom Buidhe, Tolmount and Carn an't Sagairt Mor



The Munro-monster was surfacing again. I had to head North and get some kind of control. Anybody else experience this internal entity when they haven't done a hill for a while? I feel like some mad Jekyll & Hyde character ready to erupt. I left Glasgow at 0700 and parked up at Auchallater car park for 0900. I knew therefore that I had a long day ahead of me and was determined to enjoy a good stretch of the legs. The plan was simple - walk along to Loch Callater, up on to Crow Craigies and then grab Tolmount and Tom Buidhe. However, as much as I enjoyed the lovely walk in to the Loch and was surprised to see a white pony above me, it wasn't long before I experienced Jock's bog. The sound of the stags rutting was awesome and their calls reverberated across the coires and glens. I began the ascent up to the bealach and immediately felt the heart pounding but I was exorcising that monster. As I plateau'd out, it seemed a fairly easy climb up to Tolmount and from there, it wasn't 20 minutes before I was at the 1st cairn of the day. I sat and had a bite to eat and relished the peace and quiet. I could see a land rover and 2 ponies (they'd multiplied) above Coire Loch Kander and then heard gun shots booming across the coire. I imagine the ponies would be slightly redder towards the end of the day. A quick trip across and up to Tom Buidhe and I still felt fresh. It was only 1330 and I wasn't ready for turning back and down just yet. TB is an odd little bump with hardly any character to it whatsoever. Hard to believe it's a Munro actually. I met a walker/runner here who had been given 5 hours by his arthritic wife to do some hills and here he was bagging his 4th Munro and off to do Glas Maol and Creag Leacach, believing he would be back in plenty of time. Good effort. Rather than go back via Tolmount, I headed directly down towards the bealach and decided to stay high and return North rather than face the bogs again. I checked the map and could see that I would be able to take in Carn an't Sagairt Mor before my descend and it would take me back at the head of Loch Callater. Poifect. I passed the Cairn of Gowal, while suffering 15 cardiac arrests by those f**king ptarmigan shooting out of the undergrowth. Bunnies were aplenty and were just beginning to turn white, in preparation for the snows. What a day. I began the short ascent up to Carn an't Sagairt Mor and saw two cairns about 100 m apart. I made sure to touch both and stopped to take in the views - wonderful. I could see some snow on Ben Avon and also the massive tors. Look forward to acquainting myself with that one soon. As I headed down off the summit, I was stopped in my tracks by a site of devastation - what appeared like wreckage was scattered in amongst some rocks. It looked like remnants of a plane and I have since found out it was a Canberra plane which crashed back in 1956. Remarkably robust considering 53 Winters had passed. Thanks to Big Al for his trivia/iPhone technology. In fact, must have coincided with his birth, the old basturt. he path off this hill back to the Loch is an absolute joy to descend and I fair galloped down it. I was getting hungry and had eaten my hill food. Once back at the Loch, it was only a 3.5 mile walk back out and it was a good warm down. This route is excellent and circumvents the inevitable bogs at the far end of Loch Callater. I felt pacified once more - for the time being the Munro-monster was satiated.

Blood and a new bum on Beinn Iutharn Mhor


After my Tour de Callater, I fancied taking a mountain bike and exploring some of the glens around Braemar. The guy at Braemar Mountain Sport told me it would take an hour to cycle to Altanour Lodge in Glen Ey. I began the cycle out of Braemar and was feeling the burn before long. Eventually Inverey came into view after a blast down past the Mar Lodge gatehouse and I began the cycle route along and into the Glen. I'm not joking when I say the saddle of this bike was tearing me a new arsehole for breakfast and I began to regret the fact I hadn't taken Compeed for my derriere. After an hour and 20 mins, I arrived at the Lodge - that guy must have been fit. I had cycled 9 miles and felt more than warmed up. However, the Munro-monster must be quelled! The views to the hills were less impressive. It says a lot when your best pic of the day is a mushroom. I decided to head up the NE-flank of Beinn Iutharn Mhor and floundered across bog for the best part of an hour. Eventually I came to the steep incline and I proceeded up for about 30 minutes. I was heading into the cloud and eventually levelled out. It was a good 20 minute walk up and over very stony ground until I found the summit cairn. I could feel the wind chill at this point and stuck on my balaclava, while enjoying a feed. According to the book, you head NE for 1km and then head down stony slopes. I took a compass reading to be sure and walked what I thought was a kilometre. Yes, these were stones which could be 'possibly hazardous in Winter' but they didn't look particularly inviting in Autumn either. However, I began the descent but realised quite quickly that the ground was loose, unstable and after cursing several times, I lost my footing and slashed my hand open on some rock. Foo. Fortunately, I had my 1st aid kit with me and did a repair job. Looking back, I had come off too late and could see the connecting ridge further back. It was 1400 by this point and I was beginning to wonder if I could be bothered taking in Carn Bhac in cloud. I couldn't. I knew I still had 9 miles of cycling to do and wanted to get to Braemar before 1700 as I was due to meet with friends. The route would be here for another time so I headed down and off the hill back to the lodge. I was rewarded with a 'stunning' mushroom. No idea what genera or species but it took a pretty picture. hadn't realised how much of an ascending road the route up Glen Ey was but it only took me 55 minutes from the lodge back to Braemar so it gives you an idea of descent - mucho fun spent straddling the bike as I couldn't endure sitting down on that saddle aka bum-breaker. I was back by 1540 and walked out of the Sports shop like John Wayne. Howdy pilgrim?

Wednesday 23 September 2009

Gone with the Wind on Na Gruagaichean


Michelle (a regular poster on WHighlands) from the US of A was over here on her travels and we had planned to meet up and have an attempt at Na Gruagaichean, an appropriately named hill for the occasion - 'the maiden'. We both met up at the Mamore Lodge hotel and paid the £3 fee to park at 200m elevation but I'd have paid a bit more for a smile from the staff. At least the collie dog looked happy. Fetch! No matter, we decided it was waterproofs on from the word go as the forecast was rather miserable and it wasn't long before we were heading along the Land Rover track, chatting away and generally getting to know a bit about each other. I had read in the paper that morning about a psychic dwarf escaping and the headline proclaimed "Small medium at large!" Michelle didn't believe me. Bad jokes aside, we began our ascent not long after the bridge across the cascading torrent and it was fairly unpleasant splunging until we levelled off a bit. Time for a drink and make sure all was okay with the pace. Well, we didn't have much of a view after about 600m and I don't think I've ever known a hill to have so many "I think we're almost there" moments - pretty sure Michelle was ready to commit Kevicide at one point. However, as we got higher, the hill narrowed to a fine arete and in clear conditions, I'm sure it would be quite spectacular. I felt a bit sorry for Michelle that she had such keech weather as all we could see from this purportedly fine view point was rain, drizzle and precipitation. However, we battled on and finally reached our objective with subsequent glory shots.

A small change of kleider was needed as we were getting a little weet. I was hungered and took out my saag masala curry - Michelle could be exonerated from not knowing about my lunch du jour competition so I couldn't really fair and square say that I had won that particular prize. The wind had truly whipped up by this time and before I knew it my Asda bag was off like a shot and frankly my dears, I could give a damn as my non-deliberate attempt at environmental contamination resulted in a wee swearie word. Oops. We decided not to carry on to Binnein Mor (maybe next year?) and started our descent back down. Good, if not slippery progress was made and it wasn't long before we startled ptarmigan and the omnipresent frog. Once back on the land rover track, we congratulated ourselves with a good M-point in horrendous conditions and vowed to have a wee drink before we went. Shep was waiting back at the hotel and we sat and had a wee drink in front of a fireplace (not enough coal for my :) liking - another environmental faux-pas!) like old friends. It was the first excursion with Michelle and although the weather was terrible, the company was very pleasant. Hope it won't be the last trip, Michelle and look forward to seeing you next year.

Sunday 9 August 2009

Chno Dearg and Stob Coire Sgriodain - a clagged oot!


Shaz and I headed up to stay at the Station Lodge bunkhouse http://www.stationlodge.co.uk at Tulloch on the Friday night with the prospect of variable weather i.e. light drizzle and rain nae doot. A note of caution - the proprietor had informed us that her licence to sell liquor would expire on the 9th August and she would not be renewing it. Fortunately, we are professional jakies and we arrived with enough drink to send us into easy slumber for the day ahead after discussing drink, hills and finally God. Isn't that how it goes? Great breakfast the next day and would definitely stay again as it sets you up for the surrounding hills. We were initially lazy and drove round to Fersit rather than skip along the train track. We were glad we had done so because a wee bridge going across a ravine was quite something and we held up traffic while impersonating David Bailey. We parked up at an area which said 'No parking' but we were in good company as other cars had done the same. 

The view across to Stob Coire Sgriodain gave us a good view of what lay ahead and we proceeded to head through Fersit, past a proper parking area (typical) and past a wee rusty-coloured dog which happily greeted us in canine custom. The poor thing had no back legs and it seemed to have metal testicles - fetch Sparky! Once past the farm, the trek South was over quite boggy ground but it wasn't long before we began to ascend and attempt to avoid the suicidal Fersit frogs, which did their best to fall under our boots. As with most Munro's, once we had cut through and up on to the crags (this took about 90 minutes from the farm), we were still quite a bit of a walk until the summit (about a km) but the cloud cover had descended and views were non-existent.

e had lunch at the top, I got the compass and map out and we set off for our 2nd objective du jour, Chno Dearg. D'ye know Chno? I remembered the book saying it could be tricky in bad visibility and this proved the case. After 500m S on a path which petered out, Shazcam thought she had a path but she was descending North towards crags and I knew this wasn't right. I told her so and we headed due SE instead. Cue torrential rain. :( We descended over quite rough ground and passed a cairn, before descending to a col with some lochans - at this point, I knew we were on course. I then took a compass reading NE to ascend Chno Dearg and it was a matter of re-checking the compass while slowly ascending. Finally, after an hour from Sgriodan we topped out on a level summit after a bouldery last wee bit but it still took us 5 min to find the summit cairn. We were glad to get then 2nd hill of the day in the bag but it once again reinforced how important it was to navigate effectively. The compass was such a great wee companion, I gave it a kiss and agreed to buy him a drink when we got back down.

The descent N to NW off Chno Dearg is tedious, fairly long and boggy and I cannot imagine anyone ascending the hill this way. I'm sure there are masochists out there who will have done this. Flagellation - ye cannae whack it. Eventually after 6 hours we got back to the car just as the cloud lifted and the sun shone down. F****** typical! Still a great day though and I sincerely hope you get better views than we did. Such is life on the hill.

Saturday 25 July 2009

Hud awa thon doedelzaks on Creise



I had planned to leave Creise as my last Munro but a change of decision (now thinking Beinn na Lap) meant that I'd be heading North on this fine day with Mike, a Dutch compadre who I had previously taken on to the Cobbler. He was due to head back to Holland for good after a 6-month stint in Scotland so I wanted him to have a good hill-day to remember. We arrived at the Glencoe ski car park and promptly headed over boggy ground and around the bottom of Creag Dubh. The going was quick and we discussed the finer points of Scottish and Dutch mentalities - I also discovered the Dutch for bagpipes was doedelzaks - brilliant! We spraffed over the novelty of pregnant men, rolls and sausage and even got round to talking about science at one point - disgraceful behaviour!

Once we got round the bottom of Creag Dubh, we could see Stob Coire a Ghlas looming in front of us and we picked a route up through the crags before setting off. The going was good and it wasn't long before we split up and chose our respective lines of attack. I enjoyed a good scramble up some rock, while Mike was nowhere to be seen. I presumed he had a better route so set off towards the top before hearing a voice shouting - Mike was about 400 ft below me and a little stuck - luckily, he managed to revise his strategy and he joined me near the top for a bit of lunch - I felt daft for having left him to do his own thing and silently berated myself for my stupidity - what was I thinking? Arse.

We topped out on Stob Coire a Ghlas and the view was stupendous - fantastic views over to the Buachaille and beyond - much camera-aiming and deleting of old photos. On we continued up to the actual summit of Creise and met a very charming woman, originally from Glasgow but who now lived in Oban. We spoke for 5 minutes and it was really great to just gab away over a common love - M-points and the great country that is Scotland - even Mike agreed. From here we set off down the initially steep drop off Creise over to Meall a Bhuiridh and along to that hill, where Mike found a digital camera - we even got the owner on the blower and met up with him at the car park after the descent. Result. One notable sign we saw was when we were heading down off Meall a Bhuiridh, which showed a skier falling - I presume it meant do not ski any further. In the summer context it was rather humorous and about as useful as the Pope's testicles. A great day all round and finished off with a fine half of Deuchars at the Drovers - well, we were due one. Have a good one Mike and it's been a pleasure knowing you.

Thursday 9 July 2009

A face full of faeces in the Fannaichs


For this drole account of my submersion, read on.

www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1298



Sunday 21 June 2009

Mullach nan Coirean and Stob Ban



Had planned to do the Ring of Steall with a guy from Walk Highlands website but once we arrived at the car park, decided that would be for a better day. The clag was down, the mouchettes were oot and we decided to head through the forest for MnC. We zig-zagged up the path but made a wee technical error somewhere with the GPS. What followed next could only be described as Rambo-esque climbing through bracken, heather and forest. Not much fun and the sweat was pashing off me. Mind you, my compadre was struggling even more - no wonder as he was carrying a 65 litre pack with an incredible amount of stuff. He was certainly prepped.

We got on to the hill proper and from there it was an easy enough pad up on to the red screes of this hill. Mind you, the 1st cairn was not the summit point so on we marched until the 1st M-point was in the bag. I'm sure folk will have made a booboo from this 1st cairn but no us. We didn't hing aboot and began the pad over to Stob Ban. This was a much more picturesque hill with great quartzite drops on either side of its peak. The meander over to the hill takes a good 25 minutes so you do feel like you've earned this 2nd Munro. Once up on the hill, we took the photaes, checked the route down (initially tricky) and headed down off the bealach into the corrie, on an excellent path. Monty began running down so I just kept up - by the time we hit the car park, it had taken us 4 hours and 30 minutes. A good pad but it was a pity the views were at a premium. Off to the Black Isle next week and hoping for better weather when tackling some of the Torridon peaks - fabbydoo!

Saturday 6 June 2009

The Aonach Eagach ridge


Couldn't believe that I took my camera for this special day and forgot the re-chargeable battery, which was still in charger 88 miles away. I am a phallus. My disappointment was slightly tempered by the fact that my buddy Cat for the day had a mobile phone (1.5Mb size) with camera so at least we'd get some photos of the trip, once she had downloaded them. Not that it was a day which wasn't memorable. I have decided to do this report in a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) style as it's a ridge which throws up lots of questions and hopefully I can provide some answers.

1. Where to park? I parked at the layby just opposite Loch Achtriochtan. This means you have a 2 mile warm-up walk to the bottom of Am Bodach - the route starts behind the small car-park and a path can be followed up - quite steep at first. Cat and I set off from here at 0800 and it was strangely quiet for Glencoe on Saturday - this meant less hassle for the awkward bits further up.

2. What is the path like up on to Am Bodach? Great. Very easy to follow but there is a small amount of scrambling about 400 ft from the top. You ascend quickly though.

3. How difficult is the Aonach Eagach and how soon do the difficulties start? Not far from the cairn of Am Bodach, there is a path, which goes off to the left - this will take you down to the fantastic prow of the Chancellor - it's scenic and a nice wee down-climb - take your time and it's straightforward enough and ideal for photos, as your party are thrust out into their airy position. This will give you a real sense of what is to come. If you don't like this, you won't like it further on. For me, this was one of the highlights of the day. Once back on to the main ridge, there is a nice path to follow before a down-climb drops you down about 15 metres. Good holds here and not that exposed - I was surprised as it was much easier than the book suggests. In fact, it was surprisingly smooth until we bagged Meall Dearg, with little in the way of difficulty. Was this going to be easier than the book and people make out? We could now see the AE ridge proper and it looked fab. The 'chimney' is a nice taster of easy holds up a funnel for 20 ft but it's not a 90 angle - maybe 70 degrees. Holds are very 'juggy', with little technicality. It's good fun and again not desperate in any way. Great photo shot though. Over the next 30-45 minutes, there are one or two areas, which need care and offer some exposure with some good drops on either side but as long as you take your time and have a head for heights, it's all good. This part may put off those who don't have a head for heights though or are confident in their scrambling abilities. Once past Stob Coire Leith, it's an enjoyable amble all the way to Sgorr Nam Fiannaidh and your 2nd Munro of the day.

4. What's the best way to get down safely? Helicopter. Seriously though we didn't entertain the path down beside the Clachaig gully. Because we had one car, we had decided to descend South straight off the 2nd Munro - there is a path about 15 yards on from the cairn. Initially, it's not bad but it gets very tricky further down due to the scree and unstable gravel. Care is needed so you're not on your backside or worse. Make for the grassy patches about 2/3 of the way down - once on to this all difficulties are over but it's a pretty steep and unrelenting descent. It may be easier (though longer) to go over to the col before the Pap. For us, it brought us right back to car at the layby.

5. Fit time did ye dee it in? 6 oors from start to finish and this involved a nice lunch for 30 mins and a 25 min diversion to the Chancellor. Cat had a better lunch than me - BLT. 

6. Is it comparable to onything else? Aye it is - very similar to the Forcan ridge aka the Saddle, in Glen Shiel. If you can cope with that, you'll be fine with this.

7. Please sir? Yes. Will there be photaes o this day oot? Yes there will be. Class dismissed.

Monday 25 May 2009

No need to curse on the Forcan ridge




I had been asked to go to a Rannoch dinner up in Skye and decided to hit a few hills on the way up on the Friday. The Rannoch ethos is a bit bizarre. Par exemple, if one of the group went missing or doesn't turn up from a hill day, there's a fight for that person's dessert before a search party is arranged. Who were this motley crew that I would be dining with? I digress. The drive from Glasgow to Kintail was smooth as we left at 0630. We (Big Al and I), parked at the layby and walked over to a wee gate, where we could make out the excellent stalker's path up to the bealach. It really is a great path and it wasn't long before we popped on to the bealach and my first view of the Saddle was had - it looked quite foreboding but at least it had stopped raining. We strode onwards and upwards before reaching the bottom of the scrambly stuff - I wasn't sure what to expect.

Books and reports suggested one or two awkward points. Having done some indoor climbing, I felt comfortable with what lay ahead. The initial part is easy scrambling but it isn't long before you're scrambling with some nice exposure on either side. I would say about 30 minutes into the scramble, there was one point, which was an awkward pull up a slopey boulder but it was very positive. I could now see the other path, which avoids the ridge completely. The ridge is a must but does require a good head for heights. More excellent scrambling led to a fairly precipitous 20 ft drop. There were two paths off this, which are quite tricky to get down but with care, it shouldn't be a problem. We chose the route more or less straight down, which was interesting and involved down-climbing but with deliberation, we got there. This is an awkward part and will put people off - I think it helped that I had some experience indoors but it doesn't prepare you for the wet and sharp rock you have to grip for. From here, there was a great path all the way to the top and a rewarding view across to the peaks in the other areas. From beginning of the ridge to the summit took us 90 minutes - we were quite quick along this.

We had lunch and Big Al played some Rammstein (Du hast Milch) - the peace was shattered by his hi-tech faux-pas but it psyched us up for our descent/ascent to Sgurr Na Sgine. Why someone would build a bloody great wall off this hill and down past the bealach is beyond me but by following it, it took us nicely to the bealach and afforded a fine view along the Saddle. We climbed up the side of SnSgine and it wasn't long before we walked along towards the summit cairn - it's a dramatic drop just off the edge of the cairn and there was a perfect wee howff for two to take tea. From there, we decided to descend off Faochag (the whelk) but it meant an excellent view back to Sgurr na Sgine.

The descent off Faochag - my god, it was an unrelenting, quad-bursting descent but done in quick time due to its steepness. My legs are still buggered. Big Al wasn't sure of the pronounciation and after the descent called it 'F**kpig' - I don't think that was quite right though. However, once across the river, that feeling of achievement and a great day on the hill was had and we enjoyed a great drive up to Elgol for a the dinner gathering at Major General Gav's pad - and were rewarded with a wonderful view of the Cuillin ridge at sunset. Dram in hand and legs weary I looked across and revelled in what had been a great day on the hill.

Monday 4 May 2009

Mount Keen



It had been a tough week at work, dealing with swine flu and the fallout. Thankfully, I had been told to bugger off for the weekend and I thought I'd head to the Grampians en route to my folks. I had had a few problems with my knee recently and was 'keen' to try it out on the walk-in and moderate ascent. The first thing that struck me was that it's a helluva long road until you even get to the car park at Glen Esk but it was lovely to be stepping out into the peace and tranquility again. Bagged up and ready to go, I headed past the curiously named 'House of Mark' (he wisnae aboot) and it's sign directing you to Mt Keen. The path was superb and as the glen opened up, I could even see as far as the path ascending up past the Ladder Burn, which was maybe 4 or 5 km in the distance. A few walkers were out and about and it wasn't long before I walked past the Queen's Well, which was itself a major public health problem - the water was stagnant and I doubt HRH drank from this in a past life.

 

As I walked past the wee hoose (how I'd love to live there), I noticed a curious bump off to the left, which looked like it might offer some decent rock-climbing - must check out that and see if it's recommended. The path meandered up on to the Knowe of Crippley (sp?) and before long, the cone of Mount Keen was clear. t had been fairly benign weather conditions to this point but a cold Easterly wind called for the waterproofs especially as sleet was being deposited on one. The trig point was tagged and a fab view over to Lochnagar was in evidence. t really is a fine view point and I could see Bennachie to the North. A wee howf has been fashioned just beside the trig point and i had a spot of lunch in the shelter and relished the peace and quiet. The return leg was very straightforward and I would definitely recommend this Munro as a relaxing wander, with little effort to ascend to the summit. It would also be a great Winter walk but I don't know how good the road would be from Tarfside to the car park (about 4 miles). The book-time says 3 hours 10 to the summit but I did this walk in just under 4 hours so it's a very generous time to ascend. I did run down from the summit to the wee house but all in all, this was a very relaxing walk and not a swine in sight. Bad joke time - man goes to the doctor and says 'Doc, I think I had swine flu, I've had symptoms for one weeeeeeeeeeek....'

Friday 3 April 2009

Beinn a Ghlo


The forecast was excellent and I decided on heading back to Beinn a Ghlo after my failed attempt in February to even get as far as the car park at Loch Moraig. Visibility wasn't the best but it promised to be a hot one later so I lathered the Factor 25 on to my coupon. The route was clear and the scar of a path was prominent on the face of Carn Liath. A fellow padder was heading for Carn nan Gabhar as he had already done the two other Munro's - I jokingly said I'd race him as he was walking along the glen and while we laughed it off, competitive Kev had to try and burn round. So, I set off at a good pace and happened along the wee hut at the side of the land rover track. From here, I headed across the heather for the path proper and it wasn't long before I was ascending. Having boosted the fitness on Meagaidh a few weeks ago, it wasn't long before I was high up and the only thing that stopped me were a flying group of geese, directly above me. I stopped and listened to their cries and the beating of their wings en masse, it was quite beautiful. Avian aesthetics aside, I tore up the final part and walked along to the summit trig point. I could now see my objectives 2 and 3.

I didn't hang about and ran down to the col between the 1st and 2nd Munro and here i disturbed two wee ptarmigan. I hadn't noticed before that one particular gender has a wee red crop on its head and rather than them flying off, they just sat on the two rocks - can you see them? I began the ascent up towards the 2nd Munro (unpronounceable) and it wasn't long before I was at the 2nd summit - it was notably colder here and I could feel that extra 100m difference. I had a sandwich here and a glug of water - what a superb day. The sun rays were beginning to break through and the surrounding peaks looked fab, though it was still hazy into the distance. I headed towards my final objective of the day and was quickly down to the bealach before Airgiod Bheinn. I took a wee rest here and could see a figure up ahead - could that have been the boy I spoke to at the car park? No time to waste, I began the final push up towards Carn nan Gabhar and pushed on to the huge cairn. Moving on from here, I headed to the trig point but there was another cairn in the distance. I rounded this to greet the guy I spoke to at the car park. We both agreed it was a fantastic day but rather than enjoy a leisurely lunch, I got a text with some news that my sister-in-law-to-be was taken into hospital. No time to waste, I began the return journey and headed back as quickly as I could. It was a boggy descent off Airgiod Bheinn but once back on the land rover track, I made good progress. By the time I got back to the car park, I had completed the circuit in just over 5 hours but I was absolutely buggered. Not only that but by the time I got back to Glasgow, my future sis-2-b was a lot better and ready for discharge. Typical. It had been a great round but am struggling to stay awake as I type. I forgot to mention the incredible array of bird-sound at the Loch - it was quite stunning and the full round in Summer is one I'd recommend.

Thursday 12 March 2009

Carn Liath and Stob Coire Poite Ardair



So, after my Drumochter sojourn the day before, the forecast was for much better conditions. Thankfully, that was good news because I planned to go for something a little more scenic on the Tuesday - Carn Liath and Stob Coire Poite Ardair and perhaps Creag Meagaidh, if I had enough time. After a great cooked breakfast at 'The Rumblie' in Laggan Bridge, I motored along to the Creag Meagaidh Nature Reserve and parked up. Jamie Andrew and some kids were also setting off though they were only heading up to look at the cliffs. Nice chap. I set off on the superb path and it wasn't long before I had reached quite far into the corrie and could vaguely make out the cliffs though there was quite a bit of cloud. I began my ascent up on to Na Cnapnachan (sp?) but had obviously missed the 'prescribed' route up as I ascended above it on to the shoulder of Carn Liath. The view across to Sron a Choire was fabulous. I then pushed on up on towards Carn Liath and atypically, I reached the huge cairn with little fuss.

The weather seemed like it was improving - should I go on to Stob PCA? I began piling over the broad expanse of hills (Meall an t-Snaim) and made good progress. Stob PCA was up ahead and slightly covered in cloud but the route was clear. After I had touched the cairn, I battered on to the Window but didn't think I had enough time to go for Creag Meagaidh itself. Reluctantly, I began to descend down the snow, conscious of any unstable snow-pack. However, it was firm and I pelted down towards the lochan. Looking back, I got a great photo of a plane flying 'through the window'. Once at the lochan, the views up to the cliffs were astounding and i took hunners o photaes. After packing my gear away, I enjoyed the long walk back along the path, looking back every so often to catch those superb views. It was a fantastic Winter day out with the sun shining brightly - a wee Red Cuillin was in the fridge back at the B&B - life is sweet!

A' Bhuidheanach Bheag


Having been thwarted twice in February by inclement weather, I had booked 2 days near Laggan to get some Winter walking done. I thought a relatively easy day near Drumochter would be good for the Monday leading me nicely into Tuesday for the Creag Meagaidh group, weather pendingish. As I got out of the wee car park at the side of the A9, I couldn't help but notice how much bloody snow had fallen. True, I could pick out the path leading up to the col but after that I thought it would be compass work galore. Looking over to A'Mharconaich, she looked resplendent and visibility (at this level) was excellent.

I began the walk up the path but it wasn't long before I had to avoid thigh-deep snow and it also wasn't long before the cloud moved in and it began to snow. I pushed on to the col and while the weather wasn't great, I decided to take a compass bearing due South, look out for the fence posts and press on. I passed the cairn at A Bhuidheanach but there were no fence posts to be seen. By this point, there was little visibility and I had to trust the compass and keep heading South. Well, I felt like I had been walking for hours and seriously began to wonder if I had made the right decision. I'm not afraid to say I was a little worried as I knew I had reached the plateau out but could I find that bloody cairn or those fence posts? Thankfully, just as I was about to head West and get off the bloody hill, the weather improved, the cloud lifted and the best fence post I'd ever seen was about 100m to my left. I wasted little time and running towards it and in the distance, I could see the trig point. Thank f**k.

I had a wee cup of coffee and then took another bearing West before setting off. The descent wasn't much better as once again the snow started and I didn't have a scooby-doo if I was going in the right direction. Trusting the compass though, I began to descend and when I walked a bit further, the welcome view of a burn was upon me. Scaring mountain hares, ptarmigan and deer, I made my way back to the A9 at Drumochter Lodge, before the last mile or so to the car. I have read that these hills are considered boring. Well, my advice is to try them in Winter, when conditions are awful as it certainly gives you a wee buzz and also reinforces how much ye need to trust thon compass.

Sunday 18 January 2009

Carn na Caim before the storm



The forecast was awful. A profound low was sweeping in from the Atlantic but Big Al, Gav, Shaz and myself all decided to head North and take in Carn na Caim and its neighbour. On the way up, Big Al impressed us all with his new iPhone, which had everything. An iPint, iTunes and even an iRight battery. When we parked up just South of Dalwhinnie, there was no sign of the inclement weather so we all strode up the land rover track with great purpose. It wasn't long before we were high above the A9, surveying all before us. Including a rather ominous storm. Within minutes, we were heading for the col in blizzard conditions and took a compass reading for Carn na Caim. A brief lull in the storm allowed us to double-check our bearings and we strode on towards the summit. However, once again the weather deteriorated - could this be the 'Thundersnow' Gav had promised us? In truth, we found the cairn by good compass work and no little luck and Big Al uttered his words of wisdom "Let's get the fuck off this hill." Photos of the situation are attached. Just look at that face of pain on our intrepid explorers. Furthermore, contrary to reports, Carn na Caim is no boring hill. Just look at that summit ridge in the background. Our descent was relatively quick although Shaz twisted her knee and it was only due to the Hellzapoppin handiwork of Gav, that she was able to resume. We got back to the car before the 'Thunderdrizzle' started and headed home in the knowledge that Big Al's iPhone was iFukt but his sense of humour still intact. Lunch of the day competition? I didn't see what Shaz had but my own concoction of mature cheese and dijon mustard deserved no better than 2nd place. Next up for this motley crew? The Aonach Eagach!