Tuesday 10 September 2019

Sgurr nan Gillean

Without doubt, I totalled myself as I approached the summit. I'll look back on this outing as one that was a success but one that also had me questioning whether I'd actually get back down alive. I was staying in Elgol and had arisen at 0330, in order to get ahead of the incoming bad weather. I drove round to the Sligachan for 0600, and began the walk with headtorch on. A good 45 minute yomp and I was beginning to see the sunrise behind Glamaig and co. In front of me, Bla Bheinn could be made out through the cloud. It was very atmospheric and conditions were benign.




As I climbed over the coire floor and on to the shoulder of Sgurr nan Gillean, some cloud was sweeping in adding an atmospheric feel to the morning. It had been a while since my last Munro outing and although I was at 2000 ft, I was beginning to feel it. Time wasn't an issue as it was just gone 0800.


I eventually made it on to the ridge proper and looked South to see Sgurr na-H-Uamha, a long awaited view of perhaps one of the most impressive peaks of the Cuillin. I was not interested in doing this as I figured the climb up to the Munro proper would be tough enough.


The ridge to the summit looked like it was a km long, rather than the 300m or so but there was no doubting how airy and exposed this would be. I carefully took my time, deliberate with hand and foot. Things were going well until I'd say the last 150m or so. I seemed to be getting pushed further West than I wanted and the scrambling was quite intense. I was very conscious of the yawning coire away to my left, with the Basteir tooth poking up on my peripheral vision.


I eventually scrambled on to a large slab and made my way along to the crevasse, before the summit cairn. I couldn't believe how small (and exposed) the cairn was. I began to get very worried, wondering how I'd get back down. It is the most uncomfortable I've every felt at a summit in Scotland and I was very keen to get off the peak, as safely as possible. There was a lot of bumsliding/gripping and the occasional jump down off the slabs. Eventually, I reached the basalt-like funnel and began to relax a bit more. Once back down to the bealach, I sent a message to my wife saying I was down safe and that I'd had a bit of a scare. At Munro 260, I have to consider whether a guide will be needed for the 5 Munros left over on the Glen Brittle side.


Wednesday 12 June 2019

Maol-Chean Dearg

Hill of the bald, red head. In effect, me. Initially, I had considered a much bigger day - the Achnashellach 3 or 5, with Bearnais bothy thrown in but the logistics of slogging a heavy pack over 3 Munros sounded unpleasant. I also wanted to try and run something. What I decided was to hike in to Coulags bothy, dump my large pack and run light up on to this Munro, with adjoining An Ruadh-Stac. If I felt fit enough, I could get back to the bothy, have some lunch and then try for Sgurr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl. In the end, I picked sensibly.

I hadn't been to Coulags or this glen before so virgin territory is always taken in with utmost attention. The bothy was a quick 40 minute pad and was impeccably clean throughout. A definite overnighter would be had here. I packed my light gear and sped off along the stalker's path up the glen and past the infamous dog-tethering stone. It was cloudy but mild and I sensed an improving day. I rapidly made ascent up the path and passed a lady with her 5 spaniels! She too was going for the Munro and we would bump into each other several times over the course of the day. I reached the bealach in good time and then began the yomp up the scree paths to the bald, red head. It was quite a tough ascent, especially the boulders before the summit cairn. From there, I had some liquid and food and watched as the cloud rolled away to reveal Torridon. It felt a little anti-climatic after having been blown away by the views to An Ruadh-Stac and beyond.





I looked back to Fuar Tholl and Sgurr Dearg and thought that combining those with the Munro I was on PLUS the Corbett would be a very tough day. I therefore decided to just relax and take my time, which was essential getting back to the scree slopes to the bealach. From here, I nipped down to the large lochain and refreshed my water bottle before getting ready for the 360m ascent of the Corbett. What a stunning place to be, with views back through the gap to a Corbett I'd done a few years ago, Being Damh. The climb up the slabs and awkward path was arduous and I began to feel my lack of hill fitness kicking in. I was elated to reach the top and touched the eventual summit. I sat down and texted my wife to say all was ok and that I'd be lunching at the bothy before a walk back out and finding a hotel. As it was 1345, I had plenty of time ahead of me. The descent demanded absolute attention and I was grateful to get back down to safe ground. All that remained was to run down the fabulous stalker's path to the bothy, where I cooked up a fab veggie bean chilli. I even had it with a can of beer, which was sublime. An easy wander back to the car and it was another fab hill day.

Monday 20 May 2019

Ben Hope

Or 'had given up hope but found hope'. Hill fever - it can't be suppressed. With Darren's last Munro on Ladhar Bheinn, I was meant to drive up the night before and meet him somewhere along the way. The plan was to get some shut-eye, then make an early start. I tossed and turned for 30 minutes then decided to just head off at 2230. I was heading along the A82 with a coffee and wondering whether I'd get the whole way to Kinlochourn before a sleep. Driving across Glencoe at 2345 was a spooky experience with many deer popping up at the side of the road, as I drove past. I eventually got to Invergarry for about 0115 only to find a large sign indicating that the A87 West and East was shut until 0700 the next day. Feck. This would mean I wouldn't get to Kinlochourn until at least 0800 with a 90-minute run to Barrisdale meaning I was unlikely to meet Darren on the hill. My tired mind played over what to do. I felt relatively awake. I decided on Ben Hope in the North. I drove (all night) and eventually got to south of Lairg for 0400 before I succumbed to a 30-minute nap. A truck roared past the lay-by and I was awake. I drove on and eventually happened upon a rather wonderful sunrise over Ben Klibreck.

I was really heartened by this and continued the drive round to the Altnaharra, then beyond to the eventual starting point for Ben Hope. It looked impressive from here. At 0600, I began the trek up and made excellent time up the hill. It reminded me of Ben Klibreck in some ways but once on to the flatter plateau, before the final climb I looked back and could appreciate the magnificent views to Foinaven, Klibreck itself and Arkle. The last steep part of the mountain was now bathed in sunshine with a light wind and once at the summit proper, I was blown away by the inversion over Ben Loyal and the North of Scotland. What a fantastic mountain.



I headed over to the further most Northerly point and relished the expanse before me. I phoned my wife and told her I was ok, as she hadn't heard from me since mixed messages through the night. I then began the descent and was back at the car for 0900. Lovely to be back amongst the big boys once again.