Carn an Fhidhleir and An Sgarsoch from the Tarf bothy

After a decent sleep in the bothy, we had breakfast and gave the bothy a quick sweep. I wondered how many people would frequent this over the next 3 months since we had been the only ones in on the 1st December. Since it's repairs, it really is a wonderful bothy and the hard work to get here makes it even better. We had our first obstacle of the day i.e the 20m wide Tarf river. I opted for bare feet with sock and shoes tied away while Em and Daz marched through with boots. The water was freezing but on the other side, I felt energised. Our trump up the shallow coire eventually saw us at the bealach between the two Munros. Em was struggling a wee bit with blisters but we left the packs and began our ascent on to the Fiddler. A fairly long walk into the cloud was a little disheartening but things would get better with a bum slide down a snow field and some sunshine. I phoned Em then we began our descent. Once back at the packs and with a Compeed applied, things were better and our ascent on to An Sgarsoch was very quick. We topped out just before mid-day. From here, the views over the Cairngorms were stunning. Our high level walk took us round and down towards the Tarf, where we would cross before making our way back via a land rover track.

The MO for both parties was similar to this morning's river efforts - while Em and Daz fared better, I plunged into the depths and got a bit of a soaking. However, our walk on to easier ground meant we were in decent spirits and ready for the 10-mile walk out to the cars. I felt good but about 5 miles out and at 1615, it was head-torches on. Although we made a good pace, it wasn't until 1800 we got back to the cars. Glen Tilt is a beautiful glen and one to return to for solitude but it was a sore last few kilometres for me and Emma. Daz, fresh from his 100km run didn't feel it so. A tremendous weekend with a 62km distance at 1850m ascent and 17 hours walking time. Fabulous.

Am Faochagach

I have to say this wasn't exactly a hill I was bursting to do. Especially after having had such a stupendous time on Quinag, a few days previously. However, it's always good getting out and it seemed to be a quick jaunt so that Mrs P wasn't too put out by me being away from our holiday location in Achiltibuie. The one thing that was clear in reading reports about this was the approach was boggy to nigh impossible, after heavy rain. Fortunately, it had been dry up this way and while there was undoubted bog to cross, I made light work of this and the infamous river crossing. Ignore the small cairn, which apparently reflects the easiest crossing - it isn't. My approach (pictured) was great but then again, it was done when the river was relatively low. Once over this, it was a straightforward approach up on to the bealach. A good point to rest, re-fuel and take in the views of clag. I can imagine that the view from the hill over to the Beinn Dearg hills can be quite stupendous. Unfortunately for me, my best photo was of a mountain hare which was happy to be snapped and never moved an inch, even as I was a close as 5 ft. I fairly romped off the hill after re-arranging the cairn to offer some shelter and was back at the car in 4 hours 15 mins. This hill epitomises why those who only Munro bag are really missing out. Perhaps I had just been spoiled by Quinag experience.

Sgurr Mor and Sgurr nan Coireachean with Sgurr Beag wild camp

I hadn't been down the far end of Loch Arkaig but I had agreed to meet Darren at a specified grid reference as we would be leaving at different times. Prior to the jaunt over to Sgurr Beag, I had taken in the two Corbetts as described in my Corbett blog. After the descent off Sgurr na Cos-Breachd laoigh, my legs were cramped beyond belief. The descent and ascent over An Eag was painful and I was aware that my pace was very slow. I descended once again to the bealach below Sgurr Beag and took some refreshments, while spying on a heard of deer who watched suspiciously. The final ascent on to Sgurr Beag was helped enormously by the zig-zag path and never have I been so happy to dump my stuff and sit down at the summit. I found an excellent pitch which was flat and slightly mossy. The view over to Sgurr Mor was nice but it wouldn't prepare me for the sunrise the next day. Darren arrived about 30 minutes later and we both got stuck into some food before the obligatory uisge beath was poured. It had been 15 months since our Skye trip and a lot had happened. We decided that we'd hit the sack by 2230 and rise at 0430 for the sunrise experience. I had a fabulous sleep and my awakening the next day was a magical experience with one of the best sunrises I had witnessed. The photos do the moment justice. We dropped down and climbed back up on to Sgurr Mor, a behemoth of a Munro and only appreciated its large coire face when heading over to Sgurr Fhurain. This was a great Corbetts and afforded great views over to Fraoch Bheinn. We returned back to the tents and already, I was beginning to flag. I told Daz to crack on and he shot off at speed. He would do the entire ridge to the last Munro but my trip ended at the summit of Coireachean as the previous day's efforts took their toll. I dropped down South and began the fairly tortuous descent back to the path in Glen Dessary. From here, it was a painful walk back to the car but 2 Munros and 3 Corbetts was a decent haul. That sunrise experience made up for it all though.

Ben More via Beinn Fhada and A Chioch

The Scottish Hills meet on Mull had already been 1 day old by the time I set off from an tir mor. This would be my first time on Mull and I was quite excited as I love the islands. I disembarked at Craignure and sped round towards Salen, our base for the week. I deposited perishables and a couple of bottles of malty drinkable for the group of 10, who I hadn’t yet met. Mull and the mainland had been baking for a few days and I wasted no time in driving round to my first objective; Beinn Fhada and the A’Chioch ridge leading to Ben More. I could just see the latter towering above and it looked a formidable hill. The car said 24 degrees centigrade and the initial climb on to Fhada was energy-sapping until I emerged on to the ridge proper and a beautiful easternly wind caressed my sweaty brow. Already, views over to the Treshnish islands were dominant with Bac Mor or Dutchman’s Cap most notable. The two Marilyns to the North looked like nice little hills. Future trips were already being planned.


I climbed up on to point 568 and the views opened up nicely with the ‘long ridge’ and the rest of the intended route before me. The dark, North-facing coire face of Ben More appeared as a giant Manta ray, looming over A’Chioch. It was an enjoyable meander, passing many rocks covered in eagle poop. Just before the last lochain, I left my poles behind for the hands-on scramble required to get to the summit. From here, Mull opened up before me, although disappointingly there was a bit of haze. I returned to my poles and began the descent to the bealach separating Fhada and A’Chioch. The climb up to this peak was most enjoyable and afforded some fantastic views down into the glen below, which had some very interesting geology - I even spotted an overhanging crag which I thought would be of interest to Dave MacLeod or the likes.

At 1630, I emerged on to the summit and the ridge leading up to Ben More looked sensational. I had decided I would take the most entertaining line up this ridge and stuck to the Westernly aspect, which allowed for some nice scrambling. This got even more enjoyable higher up. I had heard shouts above me on several occasions and wondered whether there was a competition or just some over-excitable weans up on the summit. Just as I walked on to the summit, a girl with blonde dreadlocks walked over and shook my hand while exclaiming how much she had enjoyed watching me scramble up the route. What a welcome! Clare and I spent the next 15 minutes chatting about the wild, the hills and our experiences with hers far out-trumping mine. Tales of Nepal, Kangjenchunga and New Zealand sounded fantastic and Clare worked manually day by day to supplement such trips, with no permanent abode. In a way, I was a little envious of her life. I noticed her hands were very rough and she had the face of someone who enjoyed the outdoors. We shook hands and I began the descent back to the car. The path was huge and I forget how popular the Munros are. After such a stimulating walk, the return felt a little anti-climactic but it was relaxing nonetheless. It had been a terrific introduction to Mull and I had been blessed with the conditions. All that remained was to meet the SHills crew, who were a very welcoming bunch.

Gairich - when 5 becomes 1

I had originally planned to do the Five sisters with an American couple and this would have been a point-to-point with 2 cars. As they had been ruled out by fatigue and blisters, I was left on my tod but with a high pressure due, there was no way I was going to miss out on a Munro sojourn. I had decided a while back that Gairich would be my next Munro. With 61 left to do and with Mull due in a fortnight, there was no obvious reasoning for this except that it was relatively easy to get to and promised to be a shortish day but with prime views. In those aspects, it more than lived up to expectations. It's a fair old drive to bag a solitary hill but one which I enjoyed. I parked at the dam for 0920 and already the heat was evident. I had read that the approach was boggy and I was glad that the relatively decent summer had dried it to some extent. It was still of quagmire proportions however. Once past the small hump at 310m, the track actually descends to a gate. Gairich over the loch is an outstanding view but it was to get better. The easy climb up to point 568 offers ascent but without the steepness of some other hills. This was especially welcome as was the breeze which skimmed off Loch Quoich. I had a wee breather and a fine piece before the steep ascent up the zig-zag path, which was excellent. A short scramble was good fun and provided interest aside from the dramatic drops into the coire. I was at the summit 2 hours and 20 minutes after starting out and the views over to Knoydart were incredible. That whole area looks very rugged and I can't wait to have an experience in that area in the next 12 months. Just before I started my return, I opened a Snickers bar and won a free Snickers bar. Yeay!

My descent back to the car took less than 2 hours and it was a fine wee day oot. Sixty to go.

Beinn nan Aighenan through Glen Kinglas

This was perhaps one of the most sorely needed trips I had ever experienced. The weeks at work building up to this were very tough and the fall-through of a house sale meant that I was physically in demand of something long and tough. The route into Glen Kinglas is excellent and took me past Beinn Suidhe. From here, it was virgin territory. After a 11km hike, to begin the real ascent was tough but once on to the ridge, the wildness was obvious with no clear path. After hitting the summit, I spoke to a chap and his son before descending into Coire Caim and the walk back past the old shielings. A long walk out was then endured with music keeping me going for the last hour or so. The route along the South of Beinn nan Aighenan is seldom walked and it really is a remote part of Scotland. Loch Dochard with Meall nan Eun is a beautiful place to while away some time. A very tough but memorable Munro.

Sublime Slioch

There are a number of hills in Scotland which evoke a sense of respect and admiration. Slioch (Sleagach) is 'the spear' and as the buttresses sit majestically above Loch Maree, one ponders how it could possible to ascend this behemoth. Fortunately, a nice meander along the loch and a walk up and into the coire is relatively straightforward. From there, the impressive coire cannot fail to bewitch. I had chosen this hill prior to a WalkHighlands meet and had a number of accompanying walkers by the name of Evie, Ewan (her son), John and Pete from Forfar. It is impossible to tell how a group of individuals who have never met before will get on. However, as the weather was truly stunning, we all set off in good spirits along the track. Conscious that this would be a long walk, we reined in the pace from the start and got to know each other. I always feel that I'm not getting to know someone properly at the outset and find myself asking a barrage of questions. I'm not nosey, I just like to get an impression of my fellow humans. Fortuntately, everybody was easy company and we took a number of stops to rest up, hydrate and take in the magnificant views across the loch. On one of the rest stops, we came across a chap from Dumfries who was clearly struggling. We ascertained that he had not been able to procure a meal the night before and that his supper had consisted of 'beer and nuts - well a haundfae'. Plenty of calories right enough but perhaps the heat of the day was having an effect. We never saw him again after we passed him. Shortly after, we emerged into the coire and were met with the impressive mountain of Slioch. I think this may be one of the most impressive coires I've been in and Pete confirmed that. When pressed on his favourite peak, he told of the Cairngorms, where he had got married. It sounded like a great day and memories were fondly rekindled. I found myself selecting a line up the ridge to the left of me and it was quite awkward and steep with snow patches. I was annoyed myself when I looked back down and saw Evie struggling a bit. Her son went to help her and slipped about 10 feet. It was a bad error on my part and I quickly descended to see if they were okay. No issues and Ewan felt a bit daft but I should have known better in picking that route. We arrived on the ridge and took in the views once again. From here, the walk up to the two lochans was outstanding, with the vistas across to the loch, islands and sea, quite stunning. By this point, all the major peaks in the Beinn Eighe National park came into view. As we climbed up the zig-zag path, we gained real height but the summit was still some way beyond the trig point. We arrived at the cairn en masse and settled down to have some food and drink. I descended off the Western point down to a prong and revelled in the escapism of it all. This was indeed 'living the dream'. I wanted to go back over the Munro Top and all agreed that the ridge looked fine. Well, perhaps Evie wasn't convinced but she did remarkably well over the narrow arete. After the top, I romped East and down to the impressive North facing coire bowl. From here, I could see my future route into the Fisherfield 4, which I hadn't done. All that remained, was our steep descent into the coire, where we re-fuelled with fresh water and the long walk back out, all in high spirits. When Pete later wrote on WH that Sloich had become his favourite hill, that truly encapsulated our cameraderie, this stunning mountain and how good it is to be in the hills with your fellow man.

Conival & Ben Mor Assynt - astounding.

On a trip North to Achiltibuie, I had decided I would take in these two Munros. The weather forecast was fantastic and I left the 'buie at 0715, while still in darkness. The wee road twists for 16 miles and I didn't reach the main road until 0745 and Inchnadamph until 0810. I had promised that I would be back by 1430 so I had 6 hours to get it done. The walk up the glen was pleasant with Conival in view the whole way. It got bigger and more ominous, the closer I approached. The steep ascent to the bealach began and was indeed, quite steep. However, the views back across the land were fantastic, especially the Eastern crags of Breabag. It looked a complex hill and one I was looking forward to. My pace was exceptional to this point and as I climbed the last of the crags before the bealach, I was there in 1.5 hours. I emerged on to the bealach and was confronted by a magical sight down across Coire a Mhadaidh. The buttress of the hill to the left plunged into a dark and cloudy void, while the clarity above the cloud was quite special. I could see as far as Foinaven and Ben Hope. I began the final ascent up on to the Munro and the Western face plunged away below me. The summit is an amazing place to rest for a while and take in the next objective. I assessed the ridge as the last 100m were quite icy in places. Previous footprints looked to have made a decent route across to Ben Mor Assynt. I descended off the 1st Munro and began the enjoyable strut over to the 2nd Munro, taking in the loch and dark crags to the South of Ben Mor Assynt. By 3 hours, I was sitting on the 2nd Munro and relishing the views up to Ben Hope, which had cleared. The return back and over the route was brilliant, with the views being second to none. Christmas pudding was taken and it tasted beautiful. One of the best hill day experiences yet.

Walking on the Moon, Bhrotain-style

As I drove up the A93 in gradually deteriorating conditions, I was amazed at the wilderness which developed before me. The Cairngorms were clad in Winter claes and The Police were playing in the car. Sometimes I get an idea for a title report and their song would be very apt. I slalomed into the Linn of Dee car park and was fortunate that Graeme D and a couple of other very helpful chaps were able to push me back out. Was this a bad omen? Once we had packed and attempted to help an unfortunate Yaris owner with 3 functioning tyres, we started the walk along the Land rover track to White Bridge. This allowed us to catch up since our last sojourn and clearly a lot had happened. A throwaway 'Alles in Ordnung' phrase at work had prompted an unbelievable 20 minute discussion, typical of current NHS corporate mentalities. Graeme said that in future it would be wise to use Hebrew.

The glen was white and the cloud level was very low. We doubted whether a view would be had from the top, if we got there. The 'if' being dependent on how deep the snow would be. After crossing White Bridge, we began the walk up to the Chest of Dee and were surprised by how firm the ground was. After 1 hr 45, we were at the bottom of Carn Fiachlach Beag and began the ascent. Soft snow rapidly became harder as we climbed and I proclaimed at 645m, we only had 500m to go with 2 miles of distance - could it really be so straightforward in such seemingly difficult conditions? The answer of course was no and I donned my goggles as the increasing blankness of the landscape began to strain my eyes. We could have been walking on the moon for all we could see. And we certainly weren't taking giant steps. We plunged off 3 foot shelves and had gaits of drunk men, laughing and cursing at the same time. Erufoh, ceerobee.

The climb up on to Carn-Clioch-Muillin (946m) was tough and the minutes flew past. Unfortunately, from here it was a descent down terrain that defied gravity - were we going up, were we going down? Reliance on the compass, map and sat nav saw us at the rime-iced trig point and summit cairn in 4 hours and 40 minutes of tough walking. I hacked at the ice, just to make sure the trig point was there. I wouldn't be back for a second time. Instead of re-tracing our steps, we descended due East and took turns to stumble and bum-slide our way to the bottom of the hill and back to the track. From here, we had the long and increasingly sore walk back to the car. Caffeine-fuelled chocolate were small comfort but after 8.5 hours, we finally reached the Linn of Dee. A very hard-earned tick and Graeme's 141st Munro. 

It takes two to Teanga

I had last attempted this hill with someone who was not the full shilling. Cramp, fatigue and requests to walk shorter strides fell on my ears before a daft comment 'I'll need medevac'd, Kev", had me reminiscing and laughing at the same time. This time I set out alone and fairly motored along the land rover track to the large boulder. I had been passed by a cycling triumvirate who I would meet later on. The 'tag team' and resultant high fives most likely left them a little bemused. The steep ascent through the forest brought me out at good height as I headed towards the Cam Bhealach. Indeed, my pace saw me catching those up ahead and I was making rapid progress. At the bealach, I ignored the large group sat chatting and continued on my way. Sauchiehall St does not appeal, when I am walking in the hills - nothing unsociable, I just like to relax and concentrate on the task in hand. Plus it was chilly-kind. As I meandered around the first hill, a chap approached and introduced himself as David Marshall. A nice bloke and we chatted all the way to the summit. He even had a neighbour who I knew through work - a sma world.

The wind at the summit was brutal and any exposed flesh was petrified within seconds. We scuttled down the West side of the hill and took our lunch and tea. Bliss. A text to Em-pem and I asked David to carry on to get some perspective in my photograph. At that moment, the large crowd ascended and we bid them farewell. David continued on to the second Munro but I had fulfilled my objective for the day and made a very enjoyable and relaxing jaunt back to the car in 4.5 hours. A cracking excursion and one that did indeed require two to Teanga. The day had a sad twist in the tail as I drove back via Glencoe and was privy to the emergency services overtaking me at high speed. My suspicions were confirmed later that evening and my thoughts are with their families.